4 replies to this topic

[Add_Gee]

Started getting that grinding/rubbery/metal catching type noise today which normally indicates wheel baring
So have had a look tonight and i have play up and down in the wheel. Ball joints are all fine and the hub is solid. Again looking like wheel barings.... Checked the other side and this has movement too! altho not making any nosies.

But heres the thing, i replaced the barings about 500 miles (3 months ago) with full baring kits from minispares, fitted properly, all greased up etc.. along with new ball joints and gators...

I have heard of C**p barings... but thought mini spares would be decent stuff??!

What do people recon?

[m1n1]

must be bad luck. 5 years ago i replaced both front wheel bearings with the cheaper non-genuine technostart type. They have done very well running on 5.5x12 rims for 2 years, then 13x7 for the last 3 until last month when i replaced them for the mot.

[THedooBZ]

i found that when i removed all my front hubs once when i drove after reassembly there was a crunching like the bearings had gone, to cure it i took the hub nut off and directly under that there is a tapered washer type thing (sorry best way i could describe it!!!) basically the hub nut was bottoming out on the disc and not pushing this spacer fully in, so i fitted a small space and retightened it all up and now its fine.
if you check your haynes manual it actually mentions a spacer may be needed and it tells you the dimensions to make one.
i used an old spacer for a headset on a bike.

but if you dont have discs then this would all be irrelevant as i have no experience with drums.

[Add_Gee]

yer good idea on the hub nut, i only checked that the split pin was still intact. will take it off tomorrow and re-torque it.

[the old git]

yer good idea on the hub nut, i only checked that the split pin was still intact. will take it off tomorrow and re-torque it.

Yep, I always use a flat washer under the driveshaft nut on to ensure the c/v joint is fully located in the hub. (Obviously without the tapered 'C' washer in place) I torque it up as normal, then undo the nut take out the flat washer and replace it with the 'C' washer and retorque. Never had a problem with them using this method, including 5 years of track racing. Sometimes the 'C' washer itself is at fault if you do not replace it at the same time as the wheel bearings.