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Rod Type Gear Change To Solid Remote Type Conversion


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#1 Twisty

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Posted 15 June 2012 - 05:05 PM

Hi guys just wondering if it is a possible conversion as i have a 92 sprite with rod type gear change and prefer the feel of the solid type gear change, i am just looking at the options.

If this is possible is there going to be any major fettling required? or any problems with doing this?

Sorry for the daft question but its something i would like to know.

Thanks

Steve

#2 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 15 June 2012 - 05:25 PM

A small modification to the tunnel to allow for the rear mount on the remote and maybe a little clearance on the gear change and you should be fine... I would also change the mounting of the subframe to solid... the remote gearbox was never used with a rubber mounted subframe and this may cause stresses through the remote casting.

#3 Twisty

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Posted 15 June 2012 - 05:57 PM

Nice one guess works i already have the solid mounts fitted, in your opinion would you say this is a worth while conversion or is it down to personal preference? as i find the gear changing experience allot nicer and more positive with the solid type.

Thanks

Steve

#4 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 15 June 2012 - 06:12 PM

Definitely personal preference, but you will need to change things like the transfer gears from A+ to A series and either run a conversion bearing in the transfer case or get an A series transfer case to fit the remote to your existing engine.

Also, if you're finding the rod change 'sloppy', then it may be worth popping the gearstick out and having a look at the condition of the nylon ball on the end, these do wear and can give a terrible feel to the gear change. Problem is I've never found a way to change one other than changing the gear stick.

#5 The Principal

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Posted 15 June 2012 - 06:30 PM

a minor point but its hastle getting the reversing lights working on a remote box as you need to whittle a small dowel to actuate the switch, something to think about as you need em working if fitted

#6 Cooperman

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Posted 15 June 2012 - 07:00 PM

As 'GW' says, you need to do minor mods to the tunnel. Then solid mount the sub-frame, fit pre-A+ transfer gears which will mean a different transfer gear case to accept the different transfer gear bearings (or have the A+ case bushed down). Then fit the new gearbox with the casing to suit the alloy remote linkage and fit the rear mounting bush and bracket.
I've done this on a Clubman GT with an 'S' engine & box, but it was a while ago.
Quite a big job if it's just because the rod linkage may be worn and need replacing.

#7 03jkirk

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Posted 15 June 2012 - 07:16 PM

with the reversing light you can buy switches that replace the large flat bolt on the front of the gearbox and i m sure that just extending wires to this new switch would sort the reversing lights easily

#8 The Principal

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Posted 15 June 2012 - 07:18 PM

the switch isn't the issue its the dowel that operates the switch its a discontinued item

#9 bmcecosse

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Posted 15 June 2012 - 07:41 PM

But you are right to say that the solid remote control change is a better change ! If you have the gearbox and associated parts - go for it. Fit the 'competition' rear mount for the remote control. And you may want to fit a 'gate' to prevent inadvertent selection of reverse gear.......
And errr - if your original idea was to simply put a remote on your existing gearbox - fraid not - can't be done......

Edited by bmcecosse, 15 June 2012 - 07:42 PM.


#10 dklawson

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Posted 15 June 2012 - 08:00 PM

For information on the reverse light switch see the document I link to below.

The switch components come from the MG-1100 and Austin America remote gearboxes. The last time I checked, Holden.co.uk had the switches. You may have to make the plunger and improvise the spring but it would not be a hard thing to do.

Adjusting the switch's trip point is handled by the number of gaskets fitted between the switch and the gearbox.

http://home.mindspri...verseswitch.jpg

#11 Twisty

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Posted 15 June 2012 - 09:25 PM

thanks very much for the info guys this has definitely given me some food for thought, I am undertaking a rebuild including an engine rebuild so i can get what i want when the car is back on the road.

with this rebuild i have planned it to take me at least 2 years due to finances, and myself doing 90% of the work, it seems a long time but i need to make sure its as I want it without compromise. plus its going to be a steep learning curve, and i am sure will make mistakes along the way.

once again thanks for the help I wasn't sure it was do-able but I am glad it is.

Thanks all

Steve

#12 dklawson

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Posted 16 June 2012 - 12:15 AM

There is a similar looking switch used a lot on gearboxes and overdrive units. However, those switches are not sealed against oil and their plunger is a different size making it unsuitable for the Mini gearbox.

The switches from the ag-supply store may be the correct one. You can reference the dimensions in the link I posted above. If the plunger is any larger than shown in the sketch it will not work in the Mini.

#13 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 16 June 2012 - 06:12 AM

these switches are available at most agricultural/tractor supply type places......


....or a gearbox specialist ;)

#14 dklawson

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Posted 16 June 2012 - 10:37 AM

That's good to know Dilligaf. It's too bad that's not a common part over here! I bought a used one (with the spring and plunger) from an acquaintance in Canada only to have it fail from rust a few months after installation. I felt very fortunate to find a new-old-stock one on eBay a few months later.




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