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Thermostat Housing Seal


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#1 zeroasylum

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Posted 20 June 2012 - 11:11 AM

Replacing cooling system rad hoses and thermostat tomorrow as who system is just old and been repaired too many times. On the thermostat housing at present which was not done by me but the garage when the head gasket was done 3 years ago there appears to be black silicon. Have not taken if off yet so not sure if there is a gasket there as well. So when I refit it with new stat do I put a gasket with universal blue sealer on both sides of gasket or should I use high temp automotive silicon sealer as not sure if hylomar is water resistant.

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zeroasylum

#2 jakejakejake1

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Posted 20 June 2012 - 11:27 AM

The last few times i have sealed it with just a gasket, with no sealant and its been fine, but if you do use sealant make sure its compatible with the coolant/ water.

#3 zeroasylum

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Posted 20 June 2012 - 11:32 AM

The last few times i have sealed it with just a gasket, with no sealant and its been fine, but if you do use sealant make sure its compatible with the coolant/ water.


was going to use this stuff

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/car-maintenance-accessories/car-adhesives-tapes-sealants/sealant/?549773351&0&cc5_142

#4 Nu2mini

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Posted 20 June 2012 - 02:08 PM

If you've got the proper gaskets and the head and housing are undamaged you shouldn't need sealer. I've used both the paper and cork gaskets in the past without any problems. I've heard the paper ones may weep slightly at first, but seem to seal once the engine has run awhile. You'll need two gaskets if you've got a sandwich plate, and if you have make sure the thermostat goes in the top of the plate not in the cylinder head. They may have used sealer instead of a gasket, which is a bodge. Take care undoing the housing bolts or nuts. they have a reputation for seizing in either the head or sandwich plate. Plenty of 'Plus Gas' and or heat may be needed !!!!

#5 zeroasylum

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Posted 20 June 2012 - 02:33 PM

If you've got the proper gaskets and the head and housing are undamaged you shouldn't need sealer. I've used both the paper and cork gaskets in the past without any problems. I've heard the paper ones may weep slightly at first, but seem to seal once the engine has run awhile. You'll need two gaskets if you've got a sandwich plate, and if you have make sure the thermostat goes in the top of the plate not in the cylinder head. They may have used sealer instead of a gasket, which is a bodge. Take care undoing the housing bolts or nuts. they have a reputation for seizing in either the head or sandwich plate. Plenty of 'Plus Gas' and or heat may be needed !!!!


Thanks for the advice have given them a good spray with penetrationg oil to start so wil see how it goes. With regard to the gasket one side is grey and the other is a copper/brown colour. Which side sits on the head. No sandwitch plate as 1990 car setup.

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Zeroasylum

#6 zeroasylum

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Posted 23 June 2012 - 06:58 PM


If you've got the proper gaskets and the head and housing are undamaged you shouldn't need sealer. I've used both the paper and cork gaskets in the past without any problems. I've heard the paper ones may weep slightly at first, but seem to seal once the engine has run awhile. You'll need two gaskets if you've got a sandwich plate, and if you have make sure the thermostat goes in the top of the plate not in the cylinder head. They may have used sealer instead of a gasket, which is a bodge. Take care undoing the housing bolts or nuts. they have a reputation for seizing in either the head or sandwich plate. Plenty of 'Plus Gas' and or heat may be needed !!!!


Thanks for the advice have given them a good spray with penetrationg oil to start so wil see how it goes. With regard to the gasket one side is grey and the other is a copper/brown colour. Which side sits on the head. No sandwitch plate as 1990 car setup.

Thanks

Zeroasylum


Thanks to everyone for all the advice got the system up and running with new Alloy rad and it working great.

Zeroasylum




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