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Setting Valve Clearance Car Won't Start


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#1 longbridge4life

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 11:09 AM

Hi there
I have a 998cc A+ engine 1989 with electronic ignition and i can't get it to start. It turns over but that's it
.
Before this problem with it not starting i was getting sooty plugs,rough idling and sounding like the leads were on wrong way round. So to help the problem i fitted new spark plugs NGK BP6ES gapped at 32thou and reset the valve clearances but wonder if i did it right? seems worse since and lead to it not even starting.

Here's a piccy is this the right way to gap them? I have been turning the fan blade till a valve gets fully compressed/squashed then using the power of nine and checking the other valve gap.
:Example valve 3 fully compressed check clearance on valve 6

Hope someone can help

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Edited by longbridge4life, 28 June 2012 - 01:22 PM.


#2 lrostoke

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 11:20 AM

Did you remove the spark plugs when you did it...engine normally pretty difficult turn with the plugs in ??

If so are the leads back on correctly. always worth a double check

No 1 nearest radiator

dizzy cap No 1 normally top right, then going anti-clockwise 1 - 3 -4 -2

4 - 3 - 2 - 1

3 - 1
4 - 2



I set my 998 and my sisters and brother in laws to 0.3mm all valves, which is 12 thou, but I doubt thats the problem.

If it sounded like the leads were on wrong when it did run, I'd suspect timing or head gasket gone. or even leads on wrong :D

#3 longbridge4life

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 11:29 AM

Hi there, I have double checked the leads and they seem to be on right like what you've mentioned. When the rain stops I may have a go re doing the valve clearances just in case. It all started on a trip home a few weeks back when the car was chugging and spluttering like it was going to die but i nursed it home.

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#4 lrostoke

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 11:42 AM

Another possibility is that you have put the leads on correctly as they normally would be, but some time in its life the dizzy drive as been fitted wrong..

put the engine to TDC, wiggle the rockers on No 1 if they wiggle check the dizzy rotor arm is pointing to roughly 2 oclock. If it is then all is good with the dizzy

If the rotor arm is pointing to roughly 8 oclock and you are at TDC with No 1 rockers wiggling :) then dizzy is in 180 degrees out.

All that is a very long shot.

If it is 180 out just move all the leads round 2 places

#5 longbridge4life

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 11:49 AM

Sounds like a great check thanks. To find TDC do i turn the fan blade till number one valve rocker is relaxed and not compressed and check the timing notch lines up on the pulley?

#6 lrostoke

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 11:55 AM

turn the engine till No 1 nearest the radiator both valves are shut, that is both rockers you can wiggle, then look see if the notch on the pulley lines up with the big arrow

at this point rotor arm should point to roughly 2 oclock.

Like I say long shot but not impossible dizzy drive is wrong

#7 longbridge4life

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 12:40 PM

Tryed that just now both No1 valves wiggly and notch lined up with big pointer on pulley,dizzy poits to 1-2 oclock.
Iv'e taken off each spark plug lead and earthed to head bolt,all spark white/orangey ok....including the lead to the dizzy centre connection.
Here's some readings taken with the ignition turned to stage II

12.5V on battery
11.5V to lumenition electronic igition module +
4.7V + to - on coil with wires connected
3.1 Ohms on coil with wires disconnected

I charged the battery last night but these readings may be a little low because I've been cranking

#8 lrostoke

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 12:43 PM

could really do with a compression test...If it was running as if leads firing wrong before you did valve clearances, that sound very much like a head gasket problem. Although normally Ive found you can still get them started but running rough

Edited by lrostoke, 28 June 2012 - 12:44 PM.


#9 longbridge4life

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 01:21 PM

It'd be a bummer if it was the gasket! No symptoms that it's the gasket like water in the oil or anything. I recently took off the dizzy cap and cleaned the silver bits with a dremmel grrr blinking thing. When i turn the engine over it turns but after a second or so the engine stops/seizess as if the battery is failing not cranking fully and there's a put put put from the carb.

Here's my coil wiring for reference, If anyone can think of anything please get in touch,I need to get her running and sold as I'm moving in with my missus and can't take the mini with me :(

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#10 lrostoke

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 01:33 PM

could be timing is out, to advanced but seems odd it just started rough running, doesn't normally slip especially with electronic ignition..how longs it been fitted ?? was timing altered then ??

Wiring looks fine, and you mentioned earlier getting a spark so that seems ok.
You've checked the lead order but unless removed should be ok.

If head gasket is the problem don't always get symptoms..If blow between cylinders theres no water ways or oil ways to contaminate there.

Edited by lrostoke, 28 June 2012 - 01:34 PM.


#11 longbridge4life

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 05:10 PM

UPDATE:
I've reset the valve timing and after a few coughs shes come alive mwahhh hah hah hahhhhh :D I let her run upto temperature with the choke out, when i put the accelerator down it was bogging a bit but once warm she held idle well without the choke. Once warmed up if i hit the accelerator the revs drop and build up which isn't perfect but i can deal with that now shes starting.she runs better with the choke out a bit.

What do you reckon?? the mixture too lean maybe?? I've a colourtune kit that I've never used before i may have a tinker
I have an old strobe timing light that connects in line with the first plug might get that hooked on too.
Thanks so far to everyone that's been helping it's muchos appriciated.

#12 longbridge4life

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Posted 01 July 2012 - 10:26 PM

Final update:
Setting the ignition timing with a basic strobe light and having a good run has really helped the idling and hesitation,thou not upto rolling road standards it's certainly improved the performance and reliability, thanks to everyone for their advice it's much appriciated.

#13 bmcecosse

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Posted 01 July 2012 - 10:43 PM

You reset the valve timing ??? How did you do that???? It does sound like the ignition timing may be too advanced - kicking against the starter. Retard it slightly!

#14 dklawson

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Posted 01 July 2012 - 11:55 PM

Freudian slip Roy. He has been adjusting both the valve clearance and the ignition timing.

#15 longbridge4life

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Posted 02 July 2012 - 06:52 PM

Hehe yup sorry i reset the valve gaps and adjusted the ignition timing with a strobe :D




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