7 replies to this topic

[o0OWILKSO0o]

If i remove my heater completely what are the implications on the cooling system? Do i need a new/different bottom hose or where does it actually connect for a return flow. The top hose is on the sandwich plate on thermostat housing.

Its a 99' MPi

[Nu2mini]

Why do you want to remove the heater ??

[nev_payne]

You could take the feed right back into the engine bay and link the 2 ends, for the simplest method. For sake of spare parts and other users here, it's worth noting these pipes have junctions and do not need cutting - well worth selling on.

The only difference you'll have is a slight increase in coolant pressure, and less coolant required if you change it out, not having to fill the heater matrix section.

Are you intending to use a ceramic heater instead?

[o0OWILKSO0o]

No heater at all as I'm not gonna use her in the winter as I don't think she will handle the snow. That sounds good bridging it out tho. And I didnt realise you needed to top up the matrix either.

[RandyBMC]

I have removed the heater on my Spi (a 1995 Japan model), using a U to connect the two ends. I am worried that I am bypassing the radiator with the coolant from the take-off just below the thermostat. Is this an issue? There is a line that goes into the intake manifold, making it more complicated than just blocking the line. What is the best method to route the lines with no heater?

I am getting gurgling and spewing coolant from the overflow, though the temperature is fine. Initially I thought it was a bad radiator cap, but now I think it may be related to the heater removal and coolant hose routing.

All help is very appreciated.

[RandyBMC]

Hi guys,

More detail to hopefully get a response and some help!

I have an SPi and live in Dubai. The heater was removed, and the two heater lines were just connected with a U. Before that U, the upper hose that comes out just below the thermostat (which would be before going through the radiator), Ts and goes into the intake manifold. It then continues to the U, but would have gone to the heater matrix, and I'm assuming through a control valve that is not on my car. The return line from the heater also Ts and picks up the return from the intake manifold, then goes into the lower (after the radiator and since cooled) radiator hose.

The car does not overheat, however it does gurgle and blow coolant from the overflow tank after shutting it off. I am waiting for a radiator cap to start there, but I am concerned that the routing of the hoses may be the real cause.

If I block the upper heater hose after the T and allow the coolant through the intake manifold, then block the lower heater hose where it would have gone into the matrix allowing the return from the intake manifold to continue to the lower radiator hose, I would still be bypassing the radiator with that loop. It seems to me it would be doing this anyway though with the heater in place. If I block it before the T on the upper hose, then no fluid would be going through the manifold. Is that an issue? Can that passage go dry without problems in an SPi?

As you can see, I have been thinking about this extensively, but still don't know the proper way to go. Any advice at all would be welcomed.

Thanks!
Randy

[peter-b]

Use the 'u' shaped joiner but fit restrictor in line with approx. 3-4mm hole, this slows flow and mimics heater tap in off position. works fine on mine.

[RandyBMC]

Just for info to others. I ended up removing the Spi lower radiator hose and replacing it with a silicone hose from the earlier cars that has a 1/2" inlet. I then used heater hose from the thermostat outlet to the top intake manifold inlet barb, and ran heater hose from the lower intake manifold barb to the lower radiator hose. All shiny red silicone too!

It works great, and I've had no issues.

Hope that helps!