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Pre Verto Clutch Removal


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#1 huntface

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Posted 04 July 2012 - 08:46 PM

Hello,

I'm trying to replace the clutch on my '77 Clubby.

I've taken the flywheel key out and have a puller on there but the flywheel won't shift. I understand they can be tight, but the washers on the puller are starting to buckle and I'm worried something is about to snap and cause me a huge amount of issues.

Should it be this tight? After the flywheel key is removed is there anything else that needs taking out before fitting the puller on?

Finally, the fly wheel puller came with instructions which said ensure that piston 1 is set to TDC, but the Haynes and the old 70s austin service manual I have doesn't mention this and just says keep the groove horizontal. Which is it?

I could really do with out any catastrophes!

Thanks in advance!

#2 adywilsonminiturbo

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Posted 04 July 2012 - 09:36 PM

I had this sort of problem with a clutch and flywheel I removed when I put puller on and it was understrain I used an alloy drift and big hammer and shocked it throigh the starter hole

#3 Cooperman

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Posted 04 July 2012 - 10:06 PM

The flywheel can be very tight and difficult to remove. The engine should be at TDC on 1 & 4 to prevent the C-washer falling down the back of the flywheel and jamming it. The slot horizontal is a more sure way of doing this.
It can take a long time to get a flywheel off. Make suer you have a really strong puller and with the flywheel locked in place, do the puller up really tight and leave it overnight, then tighten it a bit more and give the puller bolt a few hefty blows with a club hammer. Tighten a bit more & clout again. If necessary you may need to heat up the flywheel centre with a blow-torch.
It took me 3 weeks of this to get an MPI flywheel off last yerar.

#4 huntface

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Posted 07 July 2012 - 11:27 AM

It's off! Heated it up a bit and it popped off.

My worry now is the state of the flywheel - is it meant to be that scored up?

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#5 bmcecosse

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Posted 07 July 2012 - 01:00 PM

Well - NO! It must have been on the rivets for a while.... Ideally - it should be machined smooth - but it could just be put back with a new plate - I guess it will last a good few miles ok.

#6 mini-luke

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Posted 07 July 2012 - 01:30 PM

Surely that must have been making some odd noises?

#7 huntface

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Posted 07 July 2012 - 03:04 PM

Not really. I noticed the clutch starting to slip, which got worse so i tried adjusting it, but that didn't help.

I think this damage is from a previous clutch. The bloke who serviced it for my grandparents was a bodger. Luckily he made life slightly easier by not bothering to put back all nuts on the fly wheel housing that were in tricky places.

Should i replace the pressure plate or just get it machined?

Here's the old clutch

Posted Image

Edited by huntface, 07 July 2012 - 03:07 PM.


#8 bmcecosse

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Posted 07 July 2012 - 03:50 PM

I would just put a new friction plate in it.

#9 huntface

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Posted 08 July 2012 - 07:12 PM

Can this and the pressure plate be skimmed or are they too far gone? The pressure plate is in similar condition.

I see that new flywheels are in plentiful supply but new pressure plates are pretty scarce.

#10 huntface

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Posted 11 July 2012 - 08:00 PM

Hello,

I hate bumping, but I could use some of you guys' collective sage advice before i shell out on this.

Ta muchly.




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