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Question About Total Resoration, Back To Bare Shell Etc....


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#1 antcole

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Posted 08 July 2012 - 02:09 PM

Hello folks,
Im just about to begin my Mini restoration and wanted to ask some of you seasoned restorers for a few pointers...

I have a nice big shed with an overhead beam and chain block so im goint to remove the engine first....

What id like to ask is firstly, is it difficult to mount the bare shell onto a body rotator jig?

Also, ive a ton of panel work to renew but with the bare shell supported in the jig, should i brace the body?
Im going to totally gut the shell but im only going to work on one place at a time, like the sills for instance, will be done one side at a time and ive no floor panel to do....

Any tips on the sequence of restoration would be welcomed, i have to replace both sills, inner sill patching, boot floor complete, rear sub heel board complete, both wings, front panel and scuttle complete.

Would you recommend a sequence for replacing those panels/parts or does it not matter too much which is started first?

Many thanks in advance.

#2 hawky443

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Posted 08 July 2012 - 02:46 PM

Im no expert mate, but if your doing any of the sills or if i recall cross member you should H brace the chassis..

#3 antcole

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Posted 08 July 2012 - 03:15 PM

Im thinking of replacing the entire front panel and outer wings first, therefore the rotator jig might hinder the job of aligning the bonnet gaps etc.....

So is it recommended to just sit the body shell on axle stands with the subframe removed or is it better to replace the scuttle panel first, align the bonnet and then measure up distances etc before fitting the rotator jig... thats the main worry or sequence im thinking of...

Just wondering if anyone who has done a total front end restoration could advise how they went about it.....

#4 Artful Dodger

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Posted 08 July 2012 - 03:22 PM

do the sills first. do them one side at a time to put strength back into the body, then do the rear, heel panels, boot floor etc. then finally do the front. pay be a good idea to weld some strengthening bars across the door apertures to keep the shape when cutting out the sills.

no real need for a jig, but if you do want one, and it fixes to the front end, it would be a good idea to replace the front first.

but brace bars in the door apertures is a must and do it before any repairs :P

#5 donjarr

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Posted 08 July 2012 - 03:30 PM

If you haven't already started find a garage or body shop and have the shell checked to make sure it's all straight before you start.

Then if you can get hold of any scaffolding tube (you can hire it for very little from scaffolding places, just work out the lengths you need to make a rectangular box, with cross for bracing and uprights and bracing tubes draw a picture of what you plan to do and go along and see.) Then jack the body up and take the subframes off and make up a base frame to bolt to the old sub frame mounting points so the car is sitting on a solid base which won't twist or move when you remove panels for doing the work on top.

Unless you're dead set on keeping as much original metal as possible, it's often easer to replace whole panels over just cutting out bits and welding small sections into place. Soda blasting is messy but brilliant for removing paint, and if you really want to go the whole hog have a bash and leading, and once the gutter is rust free lead it all round and that will stop it rusting in the future.

Hire a spot welder as it's a dream for putting new panels in place and things like sills, just make sure when you hire it you get a good assortment of long arms. Many people overlook spot welders but they are now quite cheap to buy and cheaper still to hire.

Once the top is done, you can make or buy one of those body rotation jig thingies that has a tube run through the centre of the car, (frost have them I think to see what I mean) and this will allow 360 degree rotation of the shell and make working underneath a doddle.

I spent 10 years restoring mine, and learnt such a lot of things I could have done and didn't at the time, so feel free to ask if you have any questions.

:D Don

#6 antcole

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Posted 08 July 2012 - 03:40 PM

Thanks chaps, my mini is fairly rust free from the sills up.... roof and pillars are good except for the few patches along the inner sills and the windscreen scuttle panel.

So, you would recommend doing the front end first if im planning to mount the shell on a spit?

Am i right in thinking its better to do the scuttle and wings in the same job?
I definitely need to renew the front panel as it full of filler..... the inner wings either side of the engine compartment are in good condition, as are the flitches....

I really want to replace the boot floor when its mounted on the spit really as it will make life easier on the knees etc....

#7 GlynC

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Posted 08 July 2012 - 04:55 PM

Hi mate
My mini was fairly sound so I did the front end whilst the subframe and engine were fitted this makes sure everything aligns up where it should. I also repaired the inner sill and door step at this stage so I could still try door gaps etc. Outter sills were also off she'll wAs still strong as the inner sills only needed patch repairs not replacing.

I then stripped the car and mounted it on a decent jig which bolted to the suspension mountings. I have done all the welding now but would have been lost without the jig it's so much easier to do heel board repairs and most of the rear sections with the car upside down. His weekend was spent stone chipping the underside great feeling to get that done and look forward to paintwork.
Best of luck hope this helps I have loads of pictures if you need anything
Glyn


#8 antcole

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Posted 08 July 2012 - 06:07 PM

Hi mate
My mini was fairly sound so I did the front end whilst the subframe and engine were fitted this makes sure everything aligns up where it should. I also repaired the inner sill and door step at this stage so I could still try door gaps etc. Outter sills were also off she'll wAs still strong as the inner sills only needed patch repairs not replacing.

I then stripped the car and mounted it on a decent jig which bolted to the suspension mountings. I have done all the welding now but would have been lost without the jig it's so much easier to do heel board repairs and most of the rear sections with the car upside down. His weekend was spent stone chipping the underside great feeling to get that done and look forward to paintwork.
Best of luck hope this helps I have loads of pictures if you need anything
Glyn


Cheers Glyn, what a superstar.

Im going to make a start tomorrow and i may well PM you for a few bits of info photos etc.

Much appreciated mate!

#9 GlynC

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Posted 08 July 2012 - 06:49 PM

Your welcome mate
I stood scratching my head for while wondering where to start
Which bits to cut off first but I am glad I did it this way and left the engine and stubby in to do the front. All lined up well and nice gaps, better than rover did to start with !!
Take lots of digital pictures as your dismantle stuff too really helps when you are well into it and need to see how things were!

Cheers Glyn


#10 SolarB

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Posted 16 July 2012 - 04:00 PM

I did the front end last, once the car was off the spit and the front subframe and doors were fitted.




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