10 replies to this topic

[matthew_leech]

I have been looking at minispeeds fast road engine kit,

http://www.minispeed...c-fast-road-kit

have any of you had this kit or know of anyone that has?

thanks again!

[sonikk4]

Can't get the link to work.

[matthew_leech]

Can't get the link to work.

http://www.minispeed...c-fast-road-kit

[sonikk4]

That one does.

[matthew_leech]

anyone had any experiences with them?

[Cooperman]

The problem with any 'engine kit' is that it is merely a load of parts, whilst the key to a good engine is in the build quality and that lies with the engine builder. I've seen well-built fairly standard engines give a better performance that poorly assembled 'hot' engines.
IMHO going to 1380 is a waste of time as very little can be gained over, say, a 1330, but the block will be scrap if a future re-build is ever needed.
When building an engine it is necesary to assemble everything very carefully making sure that ball parts are matched. The compression ratio must be measured and parts machined to give the desired figure. The cam must be 'timed-in' accurately using either offset keys or a vernier timing gear sprocket. The chosen cam must give the power & torque where needed for 'your' use of the vehicle.
The best thing to do is to decide what you want from your engine then, maybe with some help from on here, evolve an optimum specification and get a good machine shop to do the machining to your instructions.

[matthew_leech]

I would only ever go to the 1293 option anyway as I am all for longevity of an engine, and essentially the mini,

I have an engine all in peices ready to go to the machine shop, I just spotted this and was interested if it would be an financially economical option?

[Cooperman]

The BIG question is whether they do a 'trial built' to establish the built dimensions, compression ratio (C.R.), accuracy of cam timing, etc. Without a trial build and subsequent machining the engine will not be correctly built.
So a 'trial build', sometimes known as a 'dummy build, establishes the piston position at TDC so that the block can be 'decked' to bring the pistons right to the top of the bores and to establish that the crankshaft spins nicely when the caps are fitted and that the timing sprockets fit well. Then you strip and finally machine block and, if necessary head, to give the right C.R. At the same time the piston rings are removed and the ring gaps checked in the new bores.
That is the key to building a good engine.
Why not write down your desired engine spec., cost out the parts and talk to your local friendly machine shop about machining prices. Then do your own build, with help from us on here and end up with a really good engine.

[MrBounce]

I agree with everything Cooperman has just said, because that is exactly what I am doing. My Midas project had a 1275 low-compression Metro engine in bits which I could have used for an exchange unit for one of the so-called "kits". However, I have come to the conclusion that the "budget" kits are a waste of money as they are kept down to a price.

For less than the price of one of the kits I am having my machining done by a well-respected and recommended engine builder who is re-boring, honing and balancing my engine for me. Once it is ready I will be able to pick it up and put it together myself. And I KNOW that the guy will have the right parts for me.

I suppose it depends how quickly you want your engine. Whatever you do, though, give a lot of thought to how you do it.

[Scott@minispeed]

Hello Matthew_Leech,

In response to mostly other contributors comments, we have slightly amended the website description for that kit which should help.

If you need any further information, testimonials etc please give us a call on 01932400567 8am-6pm Monday to Friday or 9am-4pm Saturday

Best Regards

Scott

[cliche]

The problem with any 'engine kit' is that it is merely a load of parts, whilst the key to a good engine is in the build quality and that lies with the engine builder. I've seen well-built fairly standard engines give a better performance that poorly assembled 'hot' engines.
IMHO going to 1380 is a waste of time as very little can be gained over, say, a 1330, but the block will be scrap if a future re-build is ever needed.
When building an engine it is necesary to assemble everything very carefully making sure that ball parts are matched. The compression ratio must be measured and parts machined to give the desired figure. The cam must be 'timed-in' accurately using either offset keys or a vernier timing gear sprocket. The chosen cam must give the power & torque where needed for 'your' use of the vehicle.
The best thing to do is to decide what you want from your engine then, maybe with some help from on here, evolve an optimum specification and get a good machine shop to do the machining to your instructions.

That is the route I am following with my rebuild - with a trusted engine builder and parts selected and purchased by me after thinking about the spec for a long time (and a lot of TMF research)