10 replies to this topic

[paulalderson]

my car looked like the clutch was gone i took it to an engineer and he said clutch has done no more the 1k miles. he says the problem is my crankshaft is worn and its affecting the clutch . he advises its just as cheap to buy a decent engine and drop it in is this correct, to be honest i was afet a new gearbox as mine crunches so i may upgrade from my 998 cc , i can't post n wanted section yet but i will be looking for a complete engine etc with carb if poss thanks

[AndyMiniMad.]

I would get a second opinion!! What are the symptoms? clutch slipping/draging or just the crunch when changing down/up?

[mini-me91]

I agree with AndyMiniMad, definitely get a second opinion, its very unlikely that wear on the crank is effecting the operation of the clutch

Edited by mini-me91, 13 July 2012 - 08:02 PM.

[paulalderson]

just spoke to the guy he says its affecting the fly wheel and its pro the worst he's seen a crankshaft the guy builds race engines etc so i think he knows what he's on about , i bought a mini that was so called restored and its prob after prob oh well its a mini adventure ha ha

[03jkirk]

there should not be any "wear" on the crank where it connects to the crank as this is a taperd fit and most cranks are almost welded onto the crank and need a special puller jus to remove them. are you sure its not the clutch boss thats had it???

[dklawson]

Or... is the problem that the crank thrust bearings are severely worn?

A second opinion is best regardless of the mechanic's experience. He cannot see the condition of the crank itself unless he tears the engine down. Unless he builds A-series race engines, he is unlikely to know what to look for on your particular engine.

You should also take a look at the car yourself before going for a second opinion. Have an assistant push the clutch pedal while you watch various places. Look to see if there is play between the top of the clutch pedal pivot and the pushrod that goes into the clutch master cylinder. Move to the engine compartment and look at how much play is between the clutch slave cylinder pushrod and the throw-out arm. At the bottom of the throw out arm, look at how much play there is between its pivot pin and the clutch cover. Finally, if you are comfortable with this... remove that pivot pin for the clutch throw-out arm and pull the arm out so you can examine it. There is a "ball" on the bottom of the arm that goes into the throw-out rod with the release bearing on it. The ball on the throw-out arm wears as does the inside of the throw-out rod.

All that wear (all the pivot points, all the clevis pins, and the end of the throw-out arm) adds up. You end up loosing a lot of the effective travel of the clutch components. The end result is that you will not be able to disengage the clutch when you depress the pedal. That will result in grinding gears and other problems. This is something you can look for before taking the car for a second opinion.

[bmcecosse]

As all the others have said - this is VERY unlikely..... Unless of course the flywheel has come loose on the crankshaft...... Is that the problem? What type of clutch is it - early 'pre-verto' or later 'verto' ? Anyone near this lad who can go and have a look?

Edited by bmcecosse, 13 July 2012 - 09:16 PM.

[Cooperman]

It sounds like worn crankshaft thrust bearings which causes excess crankshaft end float and thus clutch problems. If the wear is very bad the crankshaft can be damaged and if the crank has to be ground beyond normal limits to remove the damage much thicker thrust bearings specially machined to suit may be needed.
You can get these special thrust bearings at +0.030" for the 1275 engines, but whether they are still available for the 998 I'm not sure. It is an expensive job and a new crank would be cheaper really. A good 998 crank is not expensive, but if your thrusts bearings are so wron that they have spun in their housings the block may also be damaged.

[paulalderson]

right I'm no mechanic so i double checked and everything cooper man said and bmcecosse said is correct the fly wheel came loose and has caused some damage etc. he says that he could strip engine etc but if i could buy a decent donor engine it will be just as cheap , i know my gearbox had 2nd gear grind so i may swell replace the lot so i will look out for a decent engine. if i buy a 1275 bored out will i need to buy a new carb
inlet manifold ets, I'm hoping someone will have a complete engine including carb ready to drop in for the right price

[bmcecosse]

Why did the flywheel come loose? You suggested the clutch had only done 1000 miles - so who 'did' the clutch renewal?? They obviously didn't fit the flywheel correctly! Indeed another engine (or at least fly + crank) will be the best way forward now.

[paulalderson]

well mechanic took clutch to bits says who ever fitted it there should be a locking washer or something and this was not fitted, i will buy a new engine i fancied a 1275 or something bigger any way