18 replies to this topic

[KaneW]

Hey guys,
Quick introduction, I used to have an account here under the name Kane^ many years ago, but i can no longer log into that account.

I have a 1974 Mini 1000 that I bought back in ~2004. It had been 'restored' (see below) after sitting in a garage for 8 years. I used it pretty much daily up until 2008 where I left it to go study at uni.
It sat for four years and the elements have taken its toll. So now I have decided to bring it back to its former glory.

I guess the main issue was a leaking door seal, which led to rotting of the floor pans. This was not helped by the sills being replaced with the horrible wide rust creating oversills (hence 'restored' above).

So now I'm left with a hole in the drivers side floor pan, from pretty much front to rear. This reaches all the way back to the heel board and rear subframe mounts. There also appears to be holes starting at the front of the drivers doorstep, and the seat crossmember has also corroded along the bottom edge where it meets the floor.

Floor Hole:


Under Seat:


Crossmember:


Doorstep:


The passenger side doesnt look too bad, but I might as well replace everything while I'm at it and get rid of the oversills (no doubt the damage will be just as bad on this side when these are removed).

The rear subframe has been removed to inspect the mounts, there's nothing left of the drivers side, but the passenger side still seems pretty solid (although it does have a snapped subframe bolt stuck in it now). So im not sure wether to just patch the one side with an end piece, or replace the whole heel board.

Drivers side:


Passenger side:



This will be my first attempt at bodywork repair. What I thought would be a simple floor panel patch has turned into a major project and so I'm feeling a little overwhelmed before I even begin.

I was thinking of replacing the drivers side floor with a front to rear piece including inner sills.

I don't know where to start really though, e.g. should I try and replace the heel board first? Or start with the floor?

I have already quickly tacked a brace in place, but not sure it will be enough.



Any advice would be appreciated.

(apologies for the long post!)

Thanks,
Kane

Edited by KaneW, 20 July 2012 - 04:19 PM.

[sonikk4]

I think i would go for the floor first myself then the heelboard. That floor is shot and if both sides are as bad as each other then it may pay you to think about a complete floor.

The heelboard i would say replace as a complete unit rather than the two ends. it again looks very rough.

A lot of it depends on your budget to be honest and your skills as a welder.

[minisi35]

Personally i would start with the heelboard, but while you still have the exisiting subframe holes then make up a jig using the existing holes as you will need to keep things square

[KaneW]

Cheers guys, gives me something to think about.

while you still have the exisiting subframe holes then make up a jig using the existing holes as you will need to keep things square

Are you saying to make a jig if i was just replacing the end pieces?
How would I go about keeping everything lined up if I replace the whole panel, given that theres not much solid metal left apart from the center tunnel. Could i fix it to the subframe off the car, then offer the whole lot up and tack it in place?

[sonikk4]

Are your subframe mount bolt holes good in the boot floor?? if so you can either use your old subframe suitably stripped to make it easier to move around as your jig. Do the work ie the heelboard and floor but keep offering up the subframe before the heelboard is permanently attached.

You can like i did take a load of measurements as well to ensure everything is lined up.

[KaneW]

Excellent thanks,
Yes the rear mount holes are still in good condition. I've just been trying to strip the subframe down today, started with the suspension trumpets/cones and have one out, the other is being a bit more stubborn.

[Jordie]

Keep up the work Kane. Ill have to arrange to come down and see it once its back on the road. Mini road trip like old times.

Makes my clubby van project look a breeze.

[Brams96]

A Heritage complete floor assembly would set you back £535 then at least you would have it all in one & know it's solid, or you could get repair panels then chop & repair the bits you need which would work out cheaper but take you a lot longer to do.

[KaneW]

Maybe I could come up to yours one weekend Jordon? You can show me your current projects and maybe the nightlife of the north haha.

Thanks Brams.
After reading around the forum ( mainly this post http://www.theminifo...etter-off-with/ ) it seems many of the people who have been in the same situation have said if they were to do it again they would go for a complete floor assembly, instead of patching panels together.

I had seen the panels before and the only things putting me off were the big expense and amount of work all at one go, rather being able to work on small bits at a time.
However in the long run it seems like it might be the best option.

Thanks again everyone.
Kane

Edited by KaneW, 22 July 2012 - 09:18 PM.

[sonikk4]

Believe me you won't regret buying the complete floor panel, that's the biggest mistake i made by doing everything in small sections. If ever i have to do that again that's the route i will take.

[mini-luke]

Worth looking at M.Machine for a full floor, the fit is excellent

[tiger99]

If you don't use a full floor, you have a lot of long welds to do.

You can get bare floor, floor with outer sills attached, or floor with crossmember, outer sills and heelboard attached.

I don't see how a floor with outer sills and no heelboard would work, because welding access for the vital subframe mount tabs on the heelboard, which weld to the rear end of the inner sill, paret of the floor, would be very awkward, to say the least.

Personally, for a case like that, I would go for the complete floor, heelboard and crossmember, as then the work is reduced to little more than spot, or more practicably, plug welding all the way round.

[Brams96]

Yeah it would be a hell of a lot quicker to just chop it all out & replace as one unit.

[mini-luke]

I don't see how a floor with outer sills and no heelboard would work, because welding access for the vital subframe mount tabs on the heelboard, which weld to the rear end of the inner sill, paret of the floor, would be very awkward, to say the least.

Yes, it is. The easiest way I could find was to slit the outer sill about a foot back from the heel board, weld the subframe mount and seam it back up, Not exactly ideal

[adywilsonminiturbo]

god i thought mine was bad once i started digging around and finding more,im looking at getting a full heritage floor in next few weeks its definetly piece of mind and if you treat it right it will last a very long time