7 replies to this topic

[cragthybob]

Hello, Ive removed the front shock absorber bracket off the car in order to treat the rust underneath it but managed to shear 2 of the 4 bolts in the process - arghhh !! Can anyone recommend how to get them out? its the top 2 so i cant get a drill in to drill them out i dont think! Also i tried grinding a groove in one of them as it protrudes but i couldnt budge it ): as a temporary measure would it be okay to use with 2 out of the 4 bolts connected? Thanks in advance craig

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[sonikk4]

You do need all four bolts to support the mount correctly. Also you can get to the nut block from inside the engine bay. This is normally spot welded in position so you maybe able to split it away from the inner wing stiffener with a good quality metal chisel.

Try and see if you can find the spot welds as it will be easier to drill those out rather than trying to knock the nut block off.

Worst case scenario here and if you are really stuck then drill out the bolt stubs. In doing this you will ruin the threads so you will then need longer bolts and two stiff nuts to be able to use the mount correctly as a temporary measure.

Just tried looking for new nut plates and cannot find any so the best way froward there would be to get a section of bar and get it drilled and tapped for the correct threads then spot weld it in place when you have done the repair to the inner wing.
Remember its a double skin there so two pieces of 0.9mm steel will be needed to perform the correct repair.

[Minidarren83]

Just to echo sonikk4 view on mine when it happened the little blocks on the back knocked of fairly easily with a good chisel and will be replacing them with a new plate and welded captive stainless nut to stop it from happening again

[cragthybob]

You do need all four bolts to support the mount correctly. Also you can get to the nut block from inside the engine bay. This is normally spot welded in position so you maybe able to split it away from the inner wing stiffener with a good quality metal chisel.

Try and see if you can find the spot welds as it will be easier to drill those out rather than trying to knock the nut block off.

Worst case scenario here and if you are really stuck then drill out the bolt stubs. In doing this you will ruin the threads so you will then need longer bolts and two stiff nuts to be able to use the mount correctly as a temporary measure.

Just tried looking for new nut plates and cannot find any so the best way froward there would be to get a section of bar and get it drilled and tapped for the correct threads then spot weld it in place when you have done the repair to the inner wing.
Remember its a double skin there so two pieces of 0.9mm steel will be needed to perform the correct repair.

Thanks for the help, does the new plate have to be welded into place or can it just sit there? also if im making a new plate what sort of bolts should i use ?

[sonikk4]

In theory the nut plate should be welded in place as that's how it came from the manufacturers but instead of spot welding in place you could seam weld it instead.

Bolt size should be 1/4" UNF 1" long. You can get these from Minispares
http://www.minispare...62.aspx|Back to

[tiger99]

Minidarren83,

Not sure if stainless nuts are a good idea here, as the damper mount carries high dynamic loads, and stainless has poor fatigue properties, as well as usually having less static strength than the proper grade 8 nut. They don't spread the load like the original metal bar either.

I do appreciate why the use of stainless is an attractive proposition. You could replace the bar with a piece of stainless, a bit thicker than the original, but tapping threads in stainless is not all that easy. If you do it that way, the stainless will weld properly to the inner wing with 316 or 316L MIG wire or TIG rod.

[Minidarren83]

Thanks for putting me right tiger99 it seams like a lot of effort. I think will be replacing the original flat bar with threaded holes and maybe a little copper grease on the rear of the threads to stop the rusting

[Pataaa]

Just encountered the same problem, ended up removing the tapped bar from the car. Just posting on here as even with it in the vice away from car the studs will not move. Glad I didn’t keep trying on the car, no chance in position.