12 replies to this topic

[mattbeddow]

Ok so i think ive diagnosed my brake issue to the pedal sticking on its pivot (shaft pin)

Following the haynes manual to get the pedals out and im stuck on the bit that says to pull out the pedal shaft pin.
The only way to get it to move is by hitting it with a hammer which has damaged the thread on the end of the pin so thatll need sorting, but now the end of the pin is flush with the pedal box, how do i get it the rest of the way out, its stuck fast.

Thanks

[charie t]

pull the pedal box out rather than struggling.
then use a punch

[dklawson]

I haven't done this in many years. I cannot even picture the parts in my head.

However, for future reference, any time you work on a threaded component that needs dislodging, put a nut on the threads to protect them prior to using a hammer. I know... hindsight is 20/20.

Assume that the shaft is severely rusty and stuck. Apply liberal amounts of penetrating oil (newsprint on the footwell to protect the carpet). Tap the pivot pin one direction, then back the other. Work the pin back and forth several times to work the oil into the joint before finally working to push the pin all the way out.

[mattbeddow]

Yeah i realised after the first hit but by then it was too late.
It goes back and forward with a couple of hits, no bother, its just the last bit.
I was trying to avoid removing the box but if there is no other option the i guess ill have to, makes access easier.

It it just the bolt at the steering column and the 2 (1 either side) on the firewall near to the pin?

[tiger99]

No. the master cylinder mounting studs are also part of the pedal box, so you have to unbolt both master cyliners, another four nuts. You should not need to disconnect th ehydraulics, just lift both master cylinders up very slightly to help free them from the studs, and the pedal box will drop out from below, once both clevis pins (the worst part of the job) are out.

[Shifty]

I've just done exactly the same thing to my Elf(and managed to damage the end of the thread with my anger!!)

Pulling the pedal box is a bit of a pain and I managed to avoid it, with the pin knocked as far over as you can get use a pair of mole grips on the end closet to the heater to rotate the pin. Pushing down on the pedal as well can help, use loads and loads of penetrating oil as well.

Eventually it will free itself, push the pin back through with a lever, using a junior hacksaw cut the damaged part of the threaded pin off(just a couple of threads will do) and then file off the burrs.

Job Done

[Dan]

They only stick because they freeze to the bushes (assuming you have releived the load on it by releasing the springs). Once you get it moving a little bit it can rotate as it comes off the locating pin, which usually means it jams harder because it's sitting on a worn bit of the shaft that is out of shape. Lots of penetrating oil, or probably better yet freeze spray, and violence will get it out. Give it a twist to try to line the worn areas back up with each other.

Edited by Dan, 16 August 2012 - 08:03 PM.

[mattbeddow]

Ill give the 'brute force' method another go in the morning before i resort to removing the whole pedal box. the clevis pins came out dead easy, i think the previous owner has had a go at a lot of things then got sick half way and given up as there have been many jobs where the first 2-4 steps in the haynes have gone dead easy then the next step that sounds easy is super hard.

Problem i have now is getting parts before monday (the deadline for the free retest before i go away tuseday), so im hoping a good ol' lube will see me through

[Ethel]

Can't you do enough without fully removing the pin? Quite often it's just a bit of rust, if the join between the cylinder and body leaks the shaft is right underneath. Get the clevis pin out & you can pump the pedal to and fro until it frees.

[rally515]

Just to save opening up another thread does anyone have any ideas on how to get the pedal box out with 'sheered' sheer bolts.

Regards
Clifford

[Shifty]

Can't you do enough without fully removing the pin? Quite often it's just a bit of rust, if the join between the cylinder and body leaks the shaft is right underneath. Get the clevis pin out & you can pump the pedal to and fro until it frees.

I tried this method for about an hour and got nowhere!! Left it soaked in oil overnight and then tried again!! All I got was a sore foot!!

[mattbeddow]

Yeah my sheer bolts had been done too so i had to stick with the big hammer and a bolt method.
Problem was finding a long enough bolt.

The pin was rather rusted and the brass linings of the pedals were rather mucky so 10 mins with some wet and dry cleaned them all up nice and shiny, greased up and reassembled and i think its sorted the problem.

Started the car to test the servo bit and to check the pedal returned, totally forgot about the oil pressure gauge not being connected and ended up with a nice pool of oil on my brand new carpets (DOH!!)

As for the sheer bolts, you could try cutting a groove in the head and use a screwdriver, failing that your only option would be to drill off the head and use a stud remover on the stud or drill out the whole thing. not sure if the nuts are captive or not

[Ethel]

You may manage to drive the shear bolts round with a centre punch or chisel, it's not so bad once you've started them moving. You know how easily a thread turns when it's not loaded, so direct a good proportion of your blow along the bolt to oppose the axial load on the thread.