14 replies to this topic

[mini mission]

MILLERS VSPE POWER PLUS FUEL TREATMENT

http://www.halfords....yId_255221#tab1


CASTROL VALVEMASTER PLUS octane booster

http://www.halfords....yId_255221#tab1

OK everyone got a question. I drive a 1275 '84 Mayfair. I'm running out of lead additive for my motor and my local Halfords doesn't sell the bottle that originally came with the car and i'm running a bit low, there were these two that caught my eye (Brands listed above) but was not to sure on which one two use. So I was hoping if some one could help me out on which brand they use or recommend one of these anything would help, would be appreciated thank you.

[jaydee]

The millers one treats only 50lt of petrol IIRC while the castrol treats 250LT...
That said, they're both good, castrol valvemaster has a great reputation and many people use that.

[mini mission]

The millers one treats only 50lt of petrol IIRC while the castrol treats 250LT...
That said, they're both good, castrol valvemaster has a great reputation and many people use that.

Gotcha, Thanks Jaydee thats the one I figured just wanted to double check maybe other possible opinions.

[minimanclive]

I used to use the castrol valve master plus up until I fitted an unleaded cylinder head.

[Cooperman]

I use Castrol Valvemaster Plus in my 'S' with seats requiring lead and 11.2:1 CR. It's worked fine for a long time.

[62S]

I would also recommend Valvemaster Plus - although if you have a standard spec engine there is Valvemaster which costs a couple of pounds less per bottle than Vlavemaster Plus.

You can get it a fair bit cheaper than Halfords on ebay and the like.

[surfblue63]

I use the standard Valvemaster without the octane booster with 97 octane fuel in my '63 Super Delux.

[tiger99]

Ideally you should use an additive with similar chemistry to the previous one. There are several types, and they don't necessarily work well with one another. You may, or may not, get a little bit of valve seat recession while the effect of the original additive is purged from the system and the new one takes effect. I would suggest comparing what it says on the containers. What was the original?

Both Castrol and Millers are highly reputable companies, unlike some of the quack remedies, snake oil, etc, which used to be sold, and still are in a few places, which did not work, and in many cases caused damage.

Stick to the one that you choose, for the life of the engine, or at least until it has a head job and hardened seats.

[Daviewonder]

Anyone had any experience with those sacks that you put in the fuel tank?

[mini mission]

Ideally you should use an additive with similar chemistry to the previous one. There are several types, and they don't necessarily work well with one another. You may, or may not, get a little bit of valve seat recession while the effect of the original additive is purged from the system and the new one takes effect. I would suggest comparing what it says on the containers. What was the original?

Both Castrol and Millers are highly reputable companies, unlike some of the quack remedies, snake oil, etc, which used to be sold, and still are in a few places, which did not work, and in many cases caused damage.

Stick to the one that you choose, for the life of the engine, or at least until it has a head job and hardened seats.

The original bottle was REDEX lead additive.

My 1275cc motor

[mini mission]

I would also recommend Valvemaster Plus - although if you have a standard spec engine there is Valvemaster which costs a couple of pounds less per bottle than Vlavemaster Plus.

You can get it a fair bit cheaper than Halfords on ebay and the like.

If I use the standard valve plus and do have standard engine is that not a good thing?

[Cooperman]

I would also recommend Valvemaster Plus - although if you have a standard spec engine there is Valvemaster which costs a couple of pounds less per bottle than Vlavemaster Plus.

You can get it a fair bit cheaper than Halfords on ebay and the like.

If I use the standard valve plus and do have standard engine is that not a good thing?

Castrol Valvemaster is fine for engines with a compression ratio of 10:1 or less. Above that it's advisable to either use premium 97 or 98 octane petrol with Castrol Valvemaster, or 95 octane with Castrol Valvemaster Plus. Above about 10.5:1 you need both 978 octane and Valvemaster Plus for best results. The Valvemaster Plus has an octane booster which raises the octane number.

[tiger99]

Daviewonder,

These sacks are a typical example of what I called snake oil. Avoid.

[Daviewonder]

Ah right. Any bad experiences?

[mini mission]

I would also recommend Valvemaster Plus - although if you have a standard spec engine there is Valvemaster which costs a couple of pounds less per bottle than Vlavemaster Plus.

You can get it a fair bit cheaper than Halfords on ebay and the like.

If I use the standard valve plus and do have standard engine is that not a good thing?

Castrol Valvemaster is fine for engines with a compression ratio of 10:1 or less. Above that it's advisable to either use premium 97 or 98 octane petrol with Castrol Valvemaster, or 95 octane with Castrol Valvemaster Plus. Above about 10.5:1 you need both 978 octane and Valvemaster Plus for best results. The Valvemaster Plus has an octane booster which raises the octane number.

HAHA so what your saying is I just need the regular valve master then?