9 replies to this topic

[Hamish]

Hi all,
I am new to this forum, but am currently restoring a 1969 mini K. when attempting to mount the remote gear selector to the gearbox i have struck trouble in the way of not being able to get it to fit. i have looked at various diagrams on the housing mounting to the gearbox and have found that there should be bolts that go up and into the gearbox, enableing them to join. when looking at mine i have found that there are no holes that the bolts can go up into. i was wondering if there are different varients of the remote selector housungs??. a reply would be much appreciated.

[tiger99]

There were two variants, the Austin/Morris etc 1100/1300 had a remote with a large rubber thing sandwiched between the main body and the extension, while the Mini version was bolted solid. I am guessing that you have half of one type and half of the other, most likely an 1100 gearbox casing and a Mini remote. I am not very familiar with the 1100, but seem to recall that on those the bolts go in from the sides, through a steel bracket. If you look at the diagram of the Mini remote on the Somerford web site, you will see clearly shown the bolts which you are talking about, and tehy do indeed go upwards, but you will also see some threaded lugs on the sides of the casting where I believe the 1100 rubber thing was bolted via its bracket.

I don't know how to fix this, as you can't change the diff housing without changing the gearbox casing, as they are machined as a pair, so you can't just substitute the Mini front half, and I daresay that you do not want a soggy piece of rubber fitted like an 1100, which you would get by changing the extension. If it fits properly, despite having no bolt holes, and there is sufficient metal, I would suggest that the best approach is to drill and tap it to fit the bolts. However, I suspect that the two parts will not actually fit properly, unless you can replicate a solid version of the 1100 rubber and its brackets.

I may have read you wrongly, and you don't have the bolt holes in the extension casing either, in which case both parts will be from an 1100, and will fit together once you find a rubber and its associated bits.

But see what the Somerford web site says: "The 22A250 housing listed here attaches directly to the gearbox via four screws from underneath. The earliest 997cc Coopers however had a housing which attached from the sides, in a similar fashion to the Austin/Morris 1100 saloon of the period, but without the rubber 'sandwich' mounting used on those cars. This side-attached remote housing is not referred to in any of the factory parts catalogues, but - guess what - we have some still in stock at time of writing. Please phone for details."

http://www.somerford...age=page&id=151

I guess a quick phone call to them may help.

[The Principal]

I use a remote from a 1300gt and there are four bolts, two long two short.

Can you post a picture of the gearbox mounting point?

Just a long shot but is it a magic wand box?

Edited by The Principal, 08 September 2012 - 04:06 PM.

[dklawson]

I agree with Tiger, It sounds like an MG-1100 type gearbox (no vertical tapped holes) so I would look for a MG-1100 remote housing to match.

When you find that housing, inquire about the "solid" sandwich plate. This accessory is supposed to replace the rubber bits that Tiger mentioned. Mini Mania in the U.S. used to sell them, hopefully OZ suppliers will as well.

Do continue to post here but don't forget to join the AusMini Forum. You have a lot of good resources closer to home who might just have that remote housing you need.

AusMini Forum

[Hamish]

Thanks for the reply guys, much appreciated. sorry for not making it clearer but neither the remote housing or the gearbox have verticle holes for them to bolt together so i pressume i am looking for the 'sandwhich plate' like you have suggested. i will have a search around and see what i can find but any links to these parts would be appreciated very much.

[Cooperman]

It is true that the diff casing is machines as a matched part with the gearbox. However, it is possible to change one without the other although not recommended. The diameter is not a real issue as the matched diameter only pinches onto the very strong bearing outer races. The real issue comes with the possible mis-match of the end faces.
I've known many broken diff casings which were changed on competition cars for non-matched ones and the answer seemed to be to use a good layer of sealant on the end-face gaskets.
Yes, before you all say that is bad practice, I know it is, but if your diff cover is cracked and you need it all rebuilt this does work.

[dklawson]

I found some reading material for you along with pictures of the original and solid mount.


Article on Sandwich Plate
Used Sandwich Plate for Sale
New Old Stock Sandwich Plate
Good Picture & Important Advice from R.Anderson
And finally, the solid mount.

[tiger99]

The solid mount would not be all that hard to make if one is not available.

[Hamish]

thanks guys, Much appreciated!

[dklawson]

The solid mount would not be all that hard to make if one is not available.

Very true. The comments by R. Anderson in the link I posted were that IF you had a rubber sandwich plate, even a failed one, it was an easy thing to weld steel strap around it to turn it into a solid mount. The link to the solid mount on Mini Mania includes a picture that suggests it would be very easy to make the whole thing from scratch if you wanted to.

Don't forget to join the AusMini Forum. You might find someone local (if that's possible in OZ) who has one of the plates you can use.