14 replies to this topic

[josh austin mini city e 82]

hi guys, so i finally started driving my mini last week for the first time! so much fun! iv done 400miles so far and from what i can tell no major problems
... however ... just a few small problems iv come across that i could use some advice on,
between 40-45mph the car shakes quite a bit, im guessing this is wheel balancing? or tracking?
also there is quite a lot of free play in the steering... and i mean quite a lot, what is most likely the cause?

just another little question to throw in, i drive a 82 city E, does this mean i have a shorter ratio final drive? i asked a friend and thats what he said.

all help very much appreciated

[Cooperman]

Shaking is probably wheel balance.
Play in steering is not good and it could be:
Worn track rod ends - easy to replace
Worn rack - not so easy to cure, but unlikely.
Seriously out of track - just get it tracked.
Play in spliuned joint at bottom of steering column - easy to do but dangerous if not sorted IMMEDIATELY
Loose steering rack U-bolts - tighten them up. Nuts are under the front carpets, 1/2" AF spanner needed.
Broken sub-frame rubber mountings - if broken, change for solid mounts all round, cheap and easy to do and improves the car no end.

[MiniLandy]

also there is quite a lot of free play in the steering... and i mean quite a lot, what is most likely the cause?

Like Cooperman said, there's a few things this could be, can you elaborate on it a bit?

Is it a 'clunk-clunk' side to side when steering, or a vagueness when in the bends?

[josh austin mini city e 82]

it passed its MOT about 4 weeks ago if thats any help? the steering doesnt seem to really make a noise there is just a lot of free play,
if the car is stationary and i trurn the wheel roughly 90 degrees for example to the left/right then turn it back until my wheels are straight the steering wheel will be turned to the left/right, so basically its not very often both my wheels and steering wheel are both straight. if that narrows it down? visible the trackrod ends seem ok, but that just from a quick look and grab

[josh austin mini city e 82]

looking through the vehicle's history
in 2011 the rack gaiter was replaced
09 off side front sub frame rubber bush replaced
09 nearside front (rear) sub frame rubber bush replaced
09 off side front (rear) sub frame rubber bush replaced
08 off side/nearside front sub frame mounting replaced

if this helps?

[tiger99]

That sounds rather like a loose steering rack (check the U bolts as above) or, very likely, broken front subfreme rear (toeboard) mounts. The rubber often seperates from the metal, but it is not too obvious. It eventually results in structural cracking in the inner wings, because the subframe moves around and transfres abnormal loads to the front teardrop mounts. I agree with Cooperman, get rid of those lousy rubber mounts, but do them all, not just the toeboard mounts, or again things will crack.

It is likely that the subframe mount problems will be causing your vibration too.

Your final drive ratio should be 2.95, nicely low for relatively quiet and economical cruising at motorway speed. You do lose a bit of acceleration, but the City E engine was mildly tuned, with a larger carburettor and higher compression than some 998s to give a bit of extra torque. I had one and found the performance to be adequate, and the economy fairly good.

But do, very urgently as has been said, check the steering column to rack clamp bolt, and the column splines. Failure there used to be common, when the Mini was quite new, due to lack of proper maintenance by inexperienced garages or owners, and killed at least a few people. I see signs on this forum that the early knowledge has been largely lost and problems like worn splines are happening again. We don't want to see anyone killed. The clamp bolt is supposed to be checked for tightness at every service. If it has been loose, and the splines are worn, you will need a new inner column, clamp bolt and locknut, and you must use the correct nut and bolt, not any substitute that seems to be right.

Please also be aware of the very important procedure when refitting the steering column after checking the splines. Both rack U bolts MUST be loosened, so the rack is free to rotate and align itself to the column, otherwise rapid failure is inevitable.

Sorry to seem to labour the point, but we don't want any forum member to be killed. Someone will be, sooner or later, by failed steering splines, but at least here we can do something to try to prevent it.

Edited by tiger99, 11 September 2012 - 08:05 PM.

[MiniLandy]

Only way to check track rod ends are to jack up the front and check for play by wobbling the wheel, as the MOT man would.

Could potentially be the collective effect of all the subframe and suspension bushes being a bit past their best, and as already mentioned, you're best off solid mounting the subframe as on a modern car, there's a kit for it on Minispares.

[josh austin mini city e 82]

on a scale of 1 - 10 how easy is it to change all the subframe mounts ? and how long will it take ? i only have jacks and stands e.c but my friend has a garage with a 4 foot deep pit if that would be easier ?

it seems alright on the motorway, will sit at 60-65 but im courteous about taking it any faster .. with it only being a 998 and 30 years old

[MiniLandy]

Here's the kit.

[josh austin mini city e 82]

tiger99 thanks for the advice it is very much appropriated, ill check them as soon as i can

[josh austin mini city e 82]

and cheers for the info and link minilandy, again much appreciated.
typo on previous post appropriated ment to say appreciated

[tiger99]

I rate changing the subframe mounts at about 5. (Changing a wheel or spark plug is 1, fitting clutch or brake pedal clevis pins, most inaccessible things on the car, is 10, changing final drive without lifting engine 8, changing clutch without lifting engine 4.)

You need to jack up and support the shell (I use a 4*2 timber across the very front of the floor, so the angle between floor and toeboard is taking the load, but if you do it that way the exhaust and probably the gearchange rods have to come off. Others lift the shell with an engine crane on the two bulkhead crossmember gussets, but there are other ways. Basically, you support the subframe, unbolt all mounts, lift the shell a few inches, remove mounts and fit new, lower shell into place and bolt up.

You will need to take great care of the fuel line between master cylinder and subframe, at the drivers side flexible hose. If it is steel, it may be sufficiently resilient to allow the subframe to be lowered a couple of inches. If it is copper, you should not be using it anyway. If it is Cunifer, handle it carefully, it may be ok. Or, you disconnect it anyway, and bleed afterwards. The clutch line will need attention too, just unbolt the slave from the transfer case and tie it up out of the way. Watch out for the main battery cable too, and check all round the area for anything else that is being pulled as you raise the shell. Engine cables, gearchange rods and fuel line, for instance. You are not moving the engine with respect to the subframe, so the driveshafts etc are not affected, but because the steering rack remains on the shell (if you need a new rack, now is the time, the lifting process is identical) the wheels will toe in somewhat while the shell is raised.

[josh austin mini city e 82]

cheers that will give me something to do over my weekend
i have checked the u-bolts and they are all tight and secure, going to crack the wheels off later and check the track rod ends
going to change to solid mounts anyway even if they dont need doing

[Big_Adam]

Yeah, I wouldn't suggest the solid mounts unless you know your shell is solid.

I've sheered my floor with rubber mounts. Not my car has about 7mm of steel for the new solid mounts to bolt to. Not having that floor split again.

Edited by Big_Adam, 13 September 2012 - 05:23 PM.

[tiger99]

7 mm of steel is excessive, and may eventually give rise to fatigue failure where the thick metal joins the thin. A 2 mm reinforcing plate, about 6 inches square, round each mount is all it needs.