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A+ Metro Tuning?


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#1 holmesy

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Posted 21 September 2012 - 12:34 PM

just purchased an unleaded a+ 1275 metro engine on here to replace my oil burning 998. the 998 should last a few more weeks and the metro engine should arrive mid next week, its apparently got a kent cam and lager carb and all the running gear apart from exhaust. its done 68,000 miles so a few questions as i dont know anything about these engines.

would my 998 stage 1 kit with 1.75" twin rc40 and maniflow freeflow system be okay to run on this engine?

what should i check for?

Anything i should replace as im gonna remove all external parts to paint?

what good tuning parts should i get for a little more output? this like ignition, exhaust, inlet?

any information that you can give me on these engines would be a great help

regards Holmesy :D

#2 Skortchio

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Posted 21 September 2012 - 01:40 PM

With regard to your stage 1 kit, the alloy inlet / freeflow will fit although the freeflow will possibly be a little on the restrictive side for a 1275 metro. medium bore lcb is the usual choice on that one but it's not life and death to get the car up and running.

The air filter probably won't fit depending on what style you have and the needle definitely won't be suitable. Further than that, it depends exactly which larger carb is fitted, there's quite a range of options.

The Metro and Mini engines are the same, different cam (but Mini's alone ran loads of different ones anyway) and the early 80's Metro's had bigger inlet valves in the head (35.6mm as opposed to 33mm) and the heater port was blanked.

If it's an original unleaded engine, as opposed to a converted unleaded head then you should have an electronic ignition (I think).

In all honesty, unless it was MEGA cheap any checking should of probably happened already before parting cash. But it's not always an option.

Personally, if you're not in a rush to fit it I'd consider getting it (or doing it yourself) refreshed. Pulled apart and anything worn replaced etc. Have the head decoked and smartened up at the same time, maybe a cheeky deshrouding and a skim.

70k is edging towards rebuild territory anyway (for good power) might be ideal opportunity to do it now while you don't 'need' the engine.

In terms of further tuning, as long as it has a fast road type cam fitted then any of the usual options can be done with the engine in the car.
Considering you're going from a 40'ish bhp 998 to a 60'ish bhp 1275 you shouldn't be aching for anymore performance for a while at least.

With a refresh of the engine, the bigger LCB, cam, RC40 (1.75" is ideal), 35.6 inlets and some light porting on the head, once the needle and the dizzy are matched you should be looking at 85+ happily.

#3 holmesy

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Posted 21 September 2012 - 02:05 PM

okay, they fairly simple to rebuild if i remember where things came from? ive stripped down modern engines and rebuilt but ive got a feeling that a mini/metro engine is gonna be a bit harder :P

thanks for the quick reply though :)

#4 Skortchio

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Posted 21 September 2012 - 02:12 PM

No worries dude, buy some of those sealy bags and put all the bolts from each bit in them attached to the bit! Then when you knock them flying (like I do turning round to fast) it makes for an easier clean up :P

I'm in a similar situation at the moment myself, soon to be in the market (once I have space) for a 1275 auto engine to build up. Hard part with the auto is the box, don't want to have to drop a grand having that rebuilt if I can avoid it. So a low milage, strong box is the important bit, the rest I can rebuild / replace.

Good luck with it!




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