9 replies to this topic

[konyo]

Tryig to undo the top engine mount bolt against the bulkhead, but the bolt has seized up inside the bush inside. & we cant get it to pull up, it's just going round and round?

Anyone got any idea's of how to get it off?

Edited by konyo, 21 September 2012 - 04:42 PM.

[minidaves]

yeah drill it out

[Ethel]

Not a captive nut then? You could grind it, or attack with a nut splitter. You might find the bolt is seized in the bush and have to remove the arm with the top bracket.

[konyo]

Not a captive nut then? You could grind it, or attack with a nut splitter. You might find the bolt is seized in the bush and have to remove the arm with the top bracket.

Can't remove the bracket as the bolts siezed to the bulkhead

[Cooperman]

The mounting bracket is welded on. You may break the bracket away from the bulkhead in trying to get it off, in which case you'll need to weld the bracket back on with a MIG welder.
Drilling the bolt out is difficult.
The best bet is to swamp the bolt with penetrating fluid (not WD40 as that's not penetrating fluid) and keep on trying.

[tiger99]

Cut the bolt with a hacksaw just under the top plate, i.e. go through the flange of the bush. If necessary, cut at the bottom too. In both cases you will have to go through the spacer too. It is not easy with the engine in to get sufficient room, so probably will not be very useful.

Or, centre punch the bolt head and drill it until it separates from the shank. A 5/16" or larger drill will do that (use a spanner to prevent the bolt spinning), stopping before you open out the hole in the master cylinder plate. Assuming that the nut has come off, and the bolt is just stuck in the spacer, unbolt and raise the master cylinders and plate, to allow the lower end of the bolt to be disengaged.

Or, again with the nut out of the way, undo the master cylinders fully (awkward work at pedal pins required, and brakes and clutch will need bleeding), take the steady bar and master cylinder plate out of the car, place plate upside down against something solid, using a spacer such as a socket, and knock the bolt out with some heavy hammer blows.

Personally, I would face up to the tedious pedal pin and brake bleeding issues, and take it off the car to deal with, as I think it would be a lot less trouble.

But before doing any of that, can you fit a screw type valve spring compressor upside down, fork end around the bolt head, pushing screw against the lower end of the bolt, and push it out? You never know, it may just work, if you can get it in there.

Oh, and just noticed your next post. Is the bolt really siezed in the bulkhead? If it is spinning, siezed in the spacer within the rubber bush, have you not already got the nut off? The upper end, as I said, is removable, not part of the bulkhead. Or is the nut stuck, and the bolt is just spinning round because the nut is rounded? If that is all, drill the head off and punch it out downwards.

Edited by tiger99, 21 September 2012 - 05:55 PM.

[xrocketengineer]

Put a socket on the bolt head. The deeper the better. Then use a right sized "G clamp" ( C-clamp on this side of the pond) that will reach reach the end of the bolt and the socket at the top. As you tighten the clamp the head of the bolt should go further into the socket.

[konyo]

Put a socket on the bolt head. The deeper the better. Then use a right sized "G clamp" ( C-clamp on this side of the pond) that will reach reach the end of the bolt and the socket at the top. As you tighten the clamp the head of the bolt should go further into the socket.

Can't do that neither, rounded the bolt while trying to snap it as it was rusty lol

[L400RAS]

Put a socket on the bolt head. The deeper the better. Then use a right sized "G clamp" ( C-clamp on this side of the pond) that will reach reach the end of the bolt and the socket at the top. As you tighten the clamp the head of the bolt should go further into the socket.

Can't do that neither, rounded the bolt while trying to snap it as it was rusty lol

Not sure you quite got the idea here; the socket is acting as a spacer - ie use a slightly oversived socket on the top, the G/ C clamp pushes on the socket and hte other end of the bolt, thus "squeezing the siezed bolt upwards, into the oversized socket.

[konyo]

Put a socket on the bolt head. The deeper the better. Then use a right sized "G clamp" ( C-clamp on this side of the pond) that will reach reach the end of the bolt and the socket at the top. As you tighten the clamp the head of the bolt should go further into the socket.

Can't do that neither, rounded the bolt while trying to snap it as it was rusty lol

Not sure you quite got the idea here; the socket is acting as a spacer - ie use a slightly oversived socket on the top, the G/ C clamp pushes on the socket and hte other end of the bolt, thus "squeezing the siezed bolt upwards, into the oversized socket.

Ahh sorry, just explained that to my dad, he said that's a good idea and will try that tomorrow :)