8 replies to this topic

[firemonkey110]

Hey guys

First off i have used the search function extensively and haven't found the answer i am looking for.

I am rebuilding a 1275 as a fast road to this spec:

1293 rebore.
21253 pistons.
megajolt.
HIF 44.
Stage 1 kit, changing the mini sport cone for a real K&N cone filter.
FDR (unknown right now but will be be stripping to the gearbox within the next couple of days)

Now for the questions.

1) Today stripping down the timing chain i was pleased to find someone had fitted a duplex drive. I don't know the mileage of the engine so should i replace the chain to be safe or will it be fine to leave it?

2) Getting to the cam i found that that someone had fit a kent 643. As above don't know the mileage, the cam is a little rusty and there is an amount of wear on the lobes, my question is should i keep it or change it out for something like the SW5 or even a kent 266?

3) This may seem like a very silly question but to remove a verto clutch and flywheel do i need to remove the large bolt in the center first before using a puller...

I only ask because i bought this socket from mini spares http://minispares.co...px|Back to shop

And well i can't fit it onto the nut because of the "shroud" around it is in the way.

Anyway cheers for reading

Edited by firemonkey110, 25 September 2012 - 08:52 PM.

[carbon]

1) Should i replace the chain to be safe or will it be fine to leave it? Replace it

2) Should i keep KC 643 or change it out for something like the SW5 or even a kent 266? The 643 is more like a 286 very fast road cam, but the 286 is generally reckoned to be better than the 643 in 1275 motors. What you choose depends what type of driving style you prefer.

3) To remove a verto clutch and flywheel do i need to remove the large bolt in the center first before using a puller? If you mean the flywheel bolt then yes, it won't budge otherwise.

Hope this helps.

[Cooperman]

Can't find the data on a 643 Kent Cam. Is it a bit like a 276 as that seems to ring a bell with me. If it is, then it should work very well in your engine. A 266 or MG Metro cam might be even better for all-round use.

To remove the flywheel you lock the flywheel and remove the centre bolt. Then prise out the locking plate and screw the big bolt back in a short way or use the centre plug which is supplied with some pullers.

Always fit a new timing chain, oil pump & cam followers at every engine build.

[firemonkey110]

Cheers for the answers guys, got one more Q. With a duplex drive should there be a belt tension and oil thrower? As they were not fitted when I removed the duplex drive.

[firemonkey110]

Cooperman, according to the KC site the 643 is also the 544 and is intended for "fast road/rally"

Edited by firemonkey110, 26 September 2012 - 09:08 AM.

[firemonkey110]

That socket wont fit the verto flywheel bolt, you need a 30mm socket not 1.5".............

Picked up a 30mm socket for halfrauds, have spent the day grappling with the flywheel center nut but no luck. I'av heated it up, hit the breaker bar with a hammer while under tension and i'm in the process of using a scaffy pole to give extra leverage.

Just wanted to check that the flywheel center nut is NOT left hand threaded? i.e. turning the bolt to the left tightens it, flicked through the haynes manual and it doesn't mention anything of the sort.

[firemonkey110]

I have peeled it off the nut, does it need to go back further?

[Cooperman]

The 544 is a nice cam and was used as the basic rally cam by the 'works'. Technology moves on and the current cams are slightly better, but you should be able to get good results with it. Be careful you don't run too high a FDR as the power will be from about 3000 rpm up to 7000 rpm. I am guessing that a 3.44 FDR would be OK for a road car with that cam.

You do need the oil thrower ring, but with a duplex there are mixed feelings about tensioners. The tensioner is really designed for a simplex chain and I've had a couple of instances of tensioner pads breaking up on a duplex. However, that was on high-revving engines. I think it's personal choice, although with a Duplex chain I think it would be wise to check the tensioner every 15,000 to 20,000 miles just to be safe.

[firemonkey110]

The 544 is a nice cam and was used as the basic rally cam by the 'works'. Technology moves on and the current cams are slightly better, but you should be able to get good results with it. Be careful you don't run too high a FDR as the power will be from about 3000 rpm up to 7000 rpm. I am guessing that a 3.44 FDR would be OK for a road car with that cam.

You do need the oil thrower ring, but with a duplex there are mixed feelings about tensioners. The tensioner is really designed for a simplex chain and I've had a couple of instances of tensioner pads breaking up on a duplex. However, that was on high-revving engines. I think it's personal choice, although with a Duplex chain I think it would be wise to check the tensioner every 15,000 to 20,000 miles just to be safe.

After a littler further research i think i will go with a 266 as the wider power band will suit the driving style a little more, going to wait and see what the FDR is before making a firm choice.

Cheers again guys, much appreciated!