9 replies to this topic

[74mini1000]

So I got the engine/trans put back in after replacing a few parts, resealing and painting it. It starts right up now and runs smooth as heck, better than it did before. So I went to back it off of the ramps and it wont go into gear. I start it in gear and it lurches. When I push the clutch pedal, the slave cylinder pushes on the throw out arm. If I disconnect the return spring, I can pull on the arm and it moves quite a bit. I then adjusted the adjusting bolt and then the pedal barely even moves, with still no clutch. This sucks. I was so excited to drive it again and now it wont move.
I hope I didn't put something back together wrong. That would really suck.

[myredmini]

You need to adjust your throw out. Have you got a haynes manual?

[Cooperman]

You need to completely re-set the clutch.
This is what you do:

Undo the two large nuts in the centre of the clutch cover. The inner is the overthrow nut and the outer is the lock nut. Take care not to snap the clutch arm ball off the arm when doing this. Unscrew both of these two to three full turns each.
Pull the arm as far to the right, i.e. towards the driver' side inner wing as you can and set the gap between the arm and the 7/16" AF stop bolt at 0.020". Lock the stop bolt in place.
Now check that the top of the arm has a linear minimum travel of 0.50".
Have the clutch pedal pushed as far down as it will go and hold it there. Screw the inner overthrow nut, the one with the flange on the inner end, in until it just touches the clutch cover. Release the clutch pedal and turn the overthrow nut a further 1/2-a-flat inwards. Now lock it in that exact position with the outer i.e. lock nut.
The clutch is not correctly set to manufacturer's settings.

[74mini1000]

I'll try that tonight when i get home. thanks

[74mini1000]

Didn't work...
I think i'm gonna pull the clutch cover off and see if everything is put in right. Once the adjusting nut is adjusted, there isnt enough travel left in the slave cylinder to disengage the clutch.
What should I be looking for if nothing stands out?

Edited by 74mini1000, 02 October 2012 - 03:54 AM.

[67_deluxe]

Hi. It sounds like I might have the same problem. I have rebuilt an A series 1100 engine and put the clutch back in with a new (non veto) clutch plate and diaphram and I can't get the clutch to disengage. The car will start and run in neutral but once it is in gear it won't start because the clutch won't disengage. I have pulled it apart twice and arefully put it back to together and still no joy. When the flywheel, clutch plate, pressure plate and diaphram are put together out of the car and I use the flywheel puller push on the diaphram it works fine but once it is back in the car I can get it to disengage. with the starter motor removed I can see the pressure plate moving about 3 mm when the clutch pedal is pressed down which should be enough to disengage it. I'd really appreciate any help anyone can offer as this has me stumped.

[Barman]

You need to completely re-set the clutch.
This is what you do:

Undo the two large nuts in the centre of the clutch cover. The inner is the overthrow nut and the outer is the lock nut. Take care not to snap the clutch arm ball off the arm when doing this. Unscrew both of these two to three full turns each.
Pull the arm as far to the right, i.e. towards the driver' side inner wing as you can and set the gap between the arm and the 7/16" AF stop bolt at 0.020". Lock the stop bolt in place.
Now check that the top of the arm has a linear minimum travel of 0.50".
Have the clutch pedal pushed as far down as it will go and hold it there. Screw the inner overthrow nut, the one with the flange on the inner end, in until it just touches the clutch cover. Release the clutch pedal and turn the overthrow nut a further 1/2-a-flat inwards. Now lock it in that exact position with the outer i.e. lock nut.
The clutch is not correctly set to manufacturer's settings.

This should be a sticky - Cooperman must be tired of typing it!

Except change 'not' to 'now' in the last sentence....

[Cooperman]

To come back to the OP's problem, if the stop bolt to arm clearance is set to 0.020" and the top of the arm (obviously pre-Verto) doesn't move 0.50" as a minimum linear distance, then the problem is mechanical or hydraulic and is not inside the clutch cover.

Here, again, is a full clutch fault-finder for clutch drag, which is what you have:

CLUTCH DRAG

Clutch drag or failure to disengage is not an uncommon problem with the Mini.
There are several possible causes as follows:
A. HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
1. Wear in the pedal spindle or failure of the pedal to master cylinder clevis pin.
2. Failure of seals in the clutch master cylinder.
3. ‘Ballooning’ of flexible hose due to internal hose degradation or damage
4. Air in system due to inadequate bleeding
5. Failure of slave cylinder seals

B. MECHANICAL SYSTEM – WITHDRAWAL MECHANISM
1. Wear in top clevis pin
2. Wear in lower clevis pin
3. Bent arm
4. Worn or broken ball at lower end of arm where it engages into plunger.
5. Wear in plunger ball seat.
6. Incorrect setting of overthrow stop nuts
7. Incorrect setting of adjusting screw (pre-Verto)
8. Corrosion between plunger and clutch cover due to lack of lubrication.
9. Thrust bearing failure – accompanied by a lot of noise.

C. THE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
1. Failure of clutch diaphragm spring due to fatigue or distortion
2. Centre plate hub not sliding on primary gear splines.
3. Clutch plate surface de-laminating or breaking up
4. Distorted clutch plate.
5. If fitted, clutch plate shock springs broken and causing a ‘jam’.
6. Primary gear not rotating freely on crankshaft due to either: i) Insufficient primary gear end float, ii) Primary gear bushes seizing on crankshaft, or iii) Primary gear bushes breaking up

Edited by Cooperman, 08 December 2012 - 10:31 AM.

[67_deluxe]

Thanks Guys. I have replaced the slave cylinder, the lever arm, Clevis pins and thrust bearing actuator and adjusted as per the above but not had any luck. I am using an 1100 engine mated to a 1275 rod change gear box. I found a post from some time back where they found that the flywheel was binding on the main gear. This could explain what I am seeing, ie clutch system seems to be working but engine remains connected to gearbox. Has anyone seen thi before? Is there a difference between the dimensions of the flywheel or main gear between a series engines? The 1100 originally came out of a Morris 1100.

[67_deluxe]

Sorry, I mean primary gear not main gear.