10 replies to this topic

[toms]

Turned the car on today to give it a little run, Just by chance checked under the bonnet while its running and noticed the fuel dripping quite a bit.
Anyone got any suggestions with whats happening and which part probably needs replacing?

Luckily it only seems to happen when the car is running??
If it helps anyone its a 1982 998 austin mini


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Eventually the engine is coming out to clean, spray the engine bay and fit a stage 1 tuning kit so please dont comment on the dirt

Edited by toms, 09 October 2012 - 04:46 PM.

[smartie93]

Is that a HS4? looks like the fuel overflow

The float valve, which is meant to shut when the float bowl is full enough, could have jammed open. thus fuel continues to be pumped in until it comes out of the overflow :/

[toms]

Is that a HS4? looks like the fuel overflow

The float valve, which is meant to shut when the float bowl is full enough, could have jammed open. thus fuel continues to be pumped in until it comes out of the overflow :/

I will be honest. I have no idea. Ive not started work on the car yet so not really had a good look at what parts are which. Im also new to the mini world.
May have to take it apart once I really start working on it

[Cooperman]

Float or stuck float valve. Take the top off the float chamber and see what it's doing.

[lrostoke]

All of the above plus the rubber bit stuck on the carb is wrong...That fitting should be a flexible rubber pipe which runs down and connects to a rigid metal pipe attached to the clutch housing..

petrol comes out of that it could get on the hot exhaust

[toms]

All of the above plus the rubber bit stuck on the carb is wrong...That fitting should be a flexible rubber pipe which runs down and connects to a rigid metal pipe attached to the clutch housing..

petrol comes out of that it could get on the hot exhaust

Thats my main concern.
You got a pic, or diagram of how one should look?

[toms]

Fellas please excuse my idiotic questions. I just dont want to get it wrong ....

Firstly im trying to source one of those flexible rubber pipes to connect to the metal pipe on the clutch housing.
Secondly, is this to basically drain away any fuel overfill to drip onto the road I take it? Or have I misunderstood ...

Cheers

[tiger99]

Yes, the pipe is to, as a last resort, drain the fuel clear of the hot parts. In normal conditions it should not have to do that. You need to fix the cause of the problem, as well as fitting the drain. Unfortunately, I can't find a part number or any other info for the drain, but it can be made from Cunifer or bundy pipe (don't use copper, the vibration will kill it), same diameter as the stub on the carburettor, to which it is joined by a short piece of rubber tube. It is normally fixed to the transmission case by, if I recall correctly, two metal P clips. Use the rubber lined type if possible, so it will neither chafe nor rattle. I strongly recommend waiting until someone comes along with a picture, to see exactly where it is supposed to fit, or search through the project threads for a picture.

As has been said, the problem centres on the needle valve and float, which are much the same in principle as on any carburettor. Usually the needle valve is sticking intermittently, so replace it anyway. It is a lot cheaper than the petrol you are wasting, far less the possible fire damage. Make sure the float pivots freely on its pin, and is not leaking (i.e. no fuel inside). Check that there is a sealing washer between needle valve body and carburettor lid. Set clearance as per Haynes manual to get correct fuel level.

The needle valve assembly is part WXZ1100. See the Somerford web site, part 40.

http://www.somerford...age=page&id=167

[toms]

Yes, the pipe is to, as a last resort, drain the fuel clear of the hot parts. In normal conditions it should not have to do that. You need to fix the cause of the problem, as well as fitting the drain. Unfortunately, I can't find a part number or any other info for the drain, but it can be made from Cunifer or bundy pipe (don't use copper, the vibration will kill it), same diameter as the stub on the carburettor, to which it is joined by a short piece of rubber tube. It is normally fixed to the transmission case by, if I recall correctly, two metal P clips. Use the rubber lined type if possible, so it will neither chafe nor rattle. I strongly recommend waiting until someone comes along with a picture, to see exactly where it is supposed to fit, or search through the project threads for a picture.

As has been said, the problem centres on the needle valve and float, which are much the same in principle as on any carburettor. Usually the needle valve is sticking intermittently, so replace it anyway. It is a lot cheaper than the petrol you are wasting, far less the possible fire damage. Make sure the float pivots freely on its pin, and is not leaking (i.e. no fuel inside). Check that there is a sealing washer between needle valve body and carburettor lid. Set clearance as per Haynes manual to get correct fuel level.

The needle valve assembly is part WXZ1100. See the Somerford web site, part 40.

http://www.somerford...age=page&id=167

Youre an absolute star pal!
Really appreciate that. Luckily a guy who lives 20 seconds away from me if a huuuuuuge car nut. Think he is going to take my engine out while I clean and paint the bay aswell as the engine.
Then getting myself a stage 1 tuning kit which I think comes with a new needle etc. So I have plent of hours overtime to be working to fund my project.

Thanks again for the help mate!

[toms]

Yes, the pipe is to, as a last resort, drain the fuel clear of the hot parts. In normal conditions it should not have to do that. You need to fix the cause of the problem, as well as fitting the drain. Unfortunately, I can't find a part number or any other info for the drain, but it can be made from Cunifer or bundy pipe (don't use copper, the vibration will kill it), same diameter as the stub on the carburettor, to which it is joined by a short piece of rubber tube. It is normally fixed to the transmission case by, if I recall correctly, two metal P clips. Use the rubber lined type if possible, so it will neither chafe nor rattle. I strongly recommend waiting until someone comes along with a picture, to see exactly where it is supposed to fit, or search through the project threads for a picture.

As has been said, the problem centres on the needle valve and float, which are much the same in principle as on any carburettor. Usually the needle valve is sticking intermittently, so replace it anyway. It is a lot cheaper than the petrol you are wasting, far less the possible fire damage. Make sure the float pivots freely on its pin, and is not leaking (i.e. no fuel inside). Check that there is a sealing washer between needle valve body and carburettor lid. Set clearance as per Haynes manual to get correct fuel level.

The needle valve assembly is part WXZ1100. See the Somerford web site, part 40.

http://www.somerford...age=page&id=167

Hi pal. Got the engine ticking over nicely at the min. First time I have turned it on sice the fuel was leaking.
Could if be possible for the fuel to have leaked if I pumped the accelerator pedal too many time before start up, just to get some fuel into the system?
Its not leaking anymore and thats the only thing I can think of

Edited by toms, 11 October 2012 - 01:49 PM.

[toms]

NOPE! I take that back. Its defo got a leak ha.
I will sort it on your advice anyway, Cheers