4 replies to this topic

[cjhols]

Hi all,
I'm new to this but I have been impressed with the generosity of responses - so thank you all!

NOW my next problem.

I have a '71 Mini Clubman that has some clutch problems. I hope someone can help. The mini was changing fine - up and down but there was a lot of vibration and noise. So I decided to adjust the clutch. I found the settings for adjusting the clutch (see below) and set the stop bolt at .5 of mm. and although this seemed to "tighten-up" the performance of the clutch it now grates when I try to change into reverse and also changing down (particularly) from 4Th. to 3Rd. What I'd like to know is this the stop bolt adjustment or the end play adjustment (2 large nuts) or could it be just a stuffed clutch????

On a similar matter is the noise you hear when you slightly depress the clutch pedal (whirring noise) the thrust bearing or the actual clutch plates????

Thanks
Peter

There are only 2 adjustments to make, and both are located on the clutch cover just below the battery. The first adjustment is to set the "resting" position of the clutch arm itself. By "resting" position, I mean; when the clutch arm is just sitting there, and your foot isn't on the clutch pedal. To make this adjustment, use a pair of pliars and pop the spring off of the top of the clutch arm. Having the spring removed isn't essential, it just makes this process easier. I've done this adjustment both with and without the spring removed. Either way is accurate and successful. Next, grab the clutch arm and pull it away from the clutch cover until you feel it bottom out against the clutch internals. This movement only takes fingertip pressure because during this adjustment you aren't actuating the clutch, all you're doing is adjusting the arm's resting position. Note that there is a 1/4" bolt with 7/16" head on it, screwed into the clutch cover and the clutch arm rests against it. Loosen that lock nut, and then with the clutch arm held out....fingertip pressure!......adjust that bolt so there is .020"(20 thousanths of an inch) gap between the arm and the bolt head. If you want, you can set it to .015" and that will make the clutch disengage sooner in the travel of the clutch pedal. ( I set this at .5 mm)



With this adjustment completed, put the spring back on the top of the clutch arm. What you've just done is adjusted the resting point for the clutch arm. This does 2 things:

• It keeps the throwout bearing from being ridden against the clutch diaphram when the clutch pedal is up.
• It adjusts the "freeplay" in the clutch pedal and the point at which the clutch will begin to disengage as you step down on the clutch pedal.

Time for the second clutch adjustment. This adjustment is somewhat difficult in the car, and is most accurate if you don't have a lot of mechanical slop. Have a helper depress the clutch pedal all the way to the floor. With the clutch held in this position, the clutch arm is fully pushed away from the engine by the clutch slave cylinder. Where the clutch arm enters the clutch cover, there are 2 large nuts; a lock nut and a "throwout stop nut" that has a flange on the clutch cover side. Loosen the lock nut and back it out away from the stop nut. Now, with your helper still holding the clutch pedal hard against the floor, spin the "throwout stop nut" up against the clutch cover with just fingertip pressure. Once it touches the clutch cover, stop! Now have your helper release the clutch pedal. Here's the important part: rotate the stop nut TOWARD the clutch cover, one additional flat of the nut. Now keep it like that and tighten the lock nut against it without loosing your position

[tiger99]

If you have done both adjustments correctly, try bleeding the hydraulics, and then set the throwout stop again.

[Cooperman]

If there is a lot of vibration when the clutch is pressed fully down it's often a sign that there is too much 'overthrow' due to the arm stop bolt and the overthrow stops not being correctly set.
It's best to do a complete re-set of the clutch.
Do as Tiger suggests and re-bleed the system.
Then undo the two big nuts in the centre of the clutch cover. Take care not to snap off the ball on the end of the arm when doing this.
Pull the arm as far as it will go to the right-hand side, i.e. the driver's side, and set the gap at the small stop bolt to 0.020".
Check that the top of the arm has linear movement of not less than 0.50" between clutch pedal fully up and fully down. If it does not have then there is a hydraulic problem.
Assuming you have 0.5" travel or slightly more, have someone push the pedal to the floor. Screw in the inner large nut until it just touches the casing. release the pedal and turn it 1/2 a flat more - that's 1/2 a FLAT, not 1/2 a turn! Use the outer big nut to lock it in position.
The clutch is then correctly set.
If that doesn't do it, come back on here.

[cjhols]

Thanks I'll try this.

[NZMINI1100]

Hi,

Read this article.

http://www.minimania...les.cfm?id=1086

This will tell you anything that could be wrong with your clutch system, Try whats written above first, but if you still cant disengage the clutch enough for smooth gear changes then this is your next step,

Personally I would replace the three clevis pins (two on the clutch arm and one on the master cylinder to clutch pedal attachment point) as well as a new clutch arm.

Ive just been through all of this. I replaced absolutely everything to do with the clutch. (new master and slave cylinder, new hydraulic hoses, new clevis pins, new clutch kit, new flywheel and backing plate, new clutch arm, new return spring, new plunger etc etc) hopefully you get yours sorted without having to replace everything like I did.