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Inertia Starter And Verto, Options?


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#1 Tamworthbay

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Posted 19 October 2012 - 07:22 PM

I am just starting to strip the 1275 we have for our project. It has an inertia starter but verto clutch. I thought all verto clutches came with pre-engaged starter? As I am planning to get a lightweight flywheel and new clutch, and have a spare pre-engaged starter, what is the best combination?

#2 mab01uk

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Posted 19 October 2012 - 07:50 PM

This may help:
http://www.calverst....mpatability.htm

#3 Tamworthbay

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Posted 19 October 2012 - 07:54 PM


This may help:
http://www.calverst.com/articles/eng-flywheel-vero_pre-verto_compatability.htm

Cheers, that suggests the other way round can work, but mine is old type starter with new type clutch. I guess I will swap,it all in the end, but for a pre verto or verto? And inertia or pre engaged?

#4 tiger99

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Posted 19 October 2012 - 09:11 PM

Why bother thinking about swapping the clutch, flywheel, release bearing, lever, slave cylinder etc, when all you need to do is swap the starter and move a few wires? The pre-engaged starter is much more reliable anyway.

But I do have to wonder if you have an inetria ring gear fitted to a verto flywheel. If so, it needs to go back to standard spec.

Future availability of parts is something to consider too, and the verto is more recent, and likely to be found on the majority of Minis still in existence, so future support is likely to be better.

#5 ACDodd

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Posted 19 October 2012 - 09:13 PM

The answer to your question is you can use either starter with either flywheel/clutch type, as long as you have the matching ring gear fitted to match the starter being used. The second part of your question is, the better combination to have is the pre-engaged starter. This unit will put more power into the engine for cranking than the older inertia setup. This is due to a different winding configuration and much lower gearing. The unit will also use less current than the older inertia unit. The engagement is also much more reliable than the older inertia unit. These are the reasons the factory changed to this unit in 1986.

AC

Edited by ACDodd, 20 October 2012 - 01:24 PM.


#6 Tamworthbay

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Posted 20 October 2012 - 08:53 AM


Why bother thinking about swapping the clutch, flywheel, release bearing, lever, slave cylinder etc, when all you need to do is swap the starter and move a few wires? The pre-engaged starter is much more reliable anyway.

But I do have to wonder if you have an inetria ring gear fitted to a verto flywheel. If so, it needs to go back to standard spec.

Future availability of parts is something to consider too, and the verto is more recent, and likely to be found on the majority of Minis still in existence, so future support is likely to be better.

I am going for a lightened flywheel anyway as part of the build. I always put a new clutch in any engine build as they are relatively cheap and its easier when you don't know the history of the old one.

The answer to your question is you can use either starter with either flywheel/clutch type, as long as you have the machine ring gear fitted to match the starter being used. The second paret of your question is, the better combination to have is the pre-engaged starter. This unit will put more power into the engine for cranking than the older inertia setup. This is due to different winding configuration and much lower gearing. The unit will aslo use less current than the older inertia unit. The egagement is also much more reliable than the older inertia unit. These are the reasons the factory changed to this unit in 1986.

AC

Hhmmmm, I wonder whether they changed the ring gear or just 'made do' . I dropped the starter out and the gear looks a bit worn and the teeth profile doesn't seem to match the ring gear teeth as well as I would expect. So it looks like I need to source a pre-engaged starter.

#7 tiger99

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Posted 20 October 2012 - 02:31 PM

I am not convinced that the wrong combination of ring gear and starter would ever work, but it is possible that it did, just. The wear rate would be horrendous, and it would tend to jam or be noisy.

It is possible to change the ring gear if your flywheel is in good condition, with a good taper and clutch surface. You just carefully drill into it from the side between a pair ot teeth to weaken it, and split it with a cold chisel. Getting the new one on is somewhat more challenging, as you need a very large gas torch, a suitable oven, or other arrangements to get the new ring gear hot, but not too hot. You then get one chance of dropping it on, with the flywheel horizontal. Alternatively, you could cool the flywheel in liquid nitrogen, and heat the ring gear to the top limit of a domestic oven, letting it soak for a while to stabilise the temperature. You would need a fair amount of liquid nitrogen, and getting it might be difficult, although it is not unduly expensive.

I would prefer to take the flywheel to an engine reconditioners and let them worry about the detail of changing the ring gear. They will have the experience, and suitable controlled heating equipment.

Edited by tiger99, 20 October 2012 - 02:32 PM.





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