14 replies to this topic

[billzer]

hi everyone drained the oil today and ohhhh, previous owner must have stripped the thread , panic has set in i managed to put a tap in it was the biggest one i had has anyone come across this one? it hasnt tightned as much as before but no oil is leaking,, yet,, would it help if i bought a new plug and washer? i havent tried it running yet any info may help many thanks

[minidaves]

many times helicoil kit is best way to solve it, but if there is resistance then some instant gasket will stop it leaking as its not under presure as long as its all clean for the stuff to stick to it.

[tiger99]

For long term reliability you need it to be helicoiled, or alternatively some people turn up a flanged bush in the lathe and MIG or TIG weld it to the casing around the edge. Or, tap it out larger and permanently fit an adaptor bush made of better material e.g. brass, using lots of Loctite on the thread so it is going to stay in for ever and not loosen when you unscrew the plug next time.

The steel plug screwing into brass or bronze is a more long-wearing combination of materials than going straight into ali.

[billzer]

thanks for that il put a little plumbers tape and some instant gasket many thanks,

[maccers]

Mine had this too, and had an insert put in but still drips some oil. I dont want to turn it anymore either! It only drops a bit of oil, when its fully hot so not too worried, but will put some high temp sealer round the plug/washer next oil change.

[billzer]

cheers for all info il try the cheapest route first then go from there , i must take the time to say how much helpful information ive found from this site , a right good crowd , thanks to all

[R1minimagic]

I hate helicoils!!

[ANON]

I hate helicoils!!

heliciols are fine as long as they are done properly

[R1minimagic]

Hmmm seems that not many people do them properly then IMO!!

[dklawson]

The important part about installing a HeliCoil properly is making sure you tap the hole perpendicular to the face where the sealing washer sits. If the drain plug goes in crooked, the copper washer won't seal. Of course... you could make or buy a plastic sealing washer to compensate for lack of perpendicularity.

If the gearbox has NOT been HeliCoiled then you can use a bonded rubber metal seal (Dowty washers). They work great. They require less torque to seal than the copper washer. However, once the box has been HeliCoiled, the HeliCoil is located right where the rubber part of the sealing washer should be. That prevents the bonded seals from working since they cannot contact a large flat surface. In those instances you MAY be able to use a 14mm nylon drain plug washer screwed onto the drain plug. The nylon will also compensate for lack of perpendicularity and require less torque to seal.

[racingbob]

may help if you lockwire the bolt to the gearbox fin

we had to on the race car, just an idea

[billzer]

thanks to all gonna try the tapered mini spares one

[tiger99]

Using a tapered plug is a complete bodge and will cause you lots of grief later.

[dklawson]

I had to use a tapered drain plug in a Honda I used to own after a shop stripped the factory drain plug hole in the sump (twice). I did NOT use a metal tapered plug but chose a nylon plug instead. It sealed well enough and was in no danger of stripping the oil pan again. However, it did not have a magnet like the Mini drain plug. Sometimes you have to do what you have to do.

[tiger99]

Yes, a nylon tapered plug is a very much safer proposition. It may be possible to carefully drill the back of it and transfer the original magnet, gluing it in securely with epoxy.