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Welding Repair Panel Best Method Question


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#1 playdays2k1

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Posted 23 October 2012 - 06:56 PM

hi i have a few repair panels i need to weld in place i was just wondering if there was a preferred, correct or best method best way i can describe is using picture/illustration below

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just one of a few panels to weld in place

so using this illustration which would be better, preferred or correct
Posted Image
i hope this illustration is understandable

#2 alex-95

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Posted 23 October 2012 - 07:38 PM

I would say it would be stronger to have it overlapped, with a joggle, then weld along the joins and a few plug welds on the overlap, than cutting it out to fit in and butt welding it. But If you Butt weld it it would look neater than overlapping it as you can grind down the weld's and blend it in.

#3 sonikk4

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Posted 23 October 2012 - 07:42 PM

For me i would go for the butt weld method although this does depend on how good your welding is and the amount of penetration you get with the weld.

The heelboard end piece will also need to be plug welded in place as well along the bottom and at the top where it's attached to the seat pan.

#4 Minidarren83

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Posted 24 October 2012 - 05:44 PM

It's but weld for me everytime if you get yourself or make some intergrips (see my build) it will ensure a correct gap between the panels for perfect penetration. For me lap welding only leaves a seam and then possible rot between the seams

#5 BusheyTrader

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Posted 24 October 2012 - 09:55 PM

Buttwelding takes more practice but by its nature it's a waterproof join. Just watch out for heat distortion. A lap joint will need weld through primer on both of the surfaces to be welded and then the joint needs seam sealer applied over it to protect it.

#6 playdays2k1

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Posted 25 October 2012 - 06:07 PM

three really good arguments for different methods i like the clamps Alex i would love to be able to but weld but i am unsure of my welding capability i like the idea of joggle and considering a pneumatic joggle tool (clarke offer a decent one at a decent price)....ohhh decisions decisions

#7 tiger99

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Posted 26 October 2012 - 09:24 PM

Don't forget that the bracket which carries the subframe mount nuts needs to be welded securely to the inner sill, which at the very least means removing part of the outer sill. It can be plug welded, with intermittent seam welds around the edge.

#8 sonikk4

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Posted 26 October 2012 - 09:27 PM

Looking at his picture Tiger the outer sill is off however i bet there is some work to do to the inner sill anyway.

#9 tiger99

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Posted 27 October 2012 - 12:33 PM

Ooops, never noticed that it was already off! And yes, it would be a very rare thing to find a heelboard end was needed, but the inner sill was perfect. In fact it would be well-nigh impossible.

As to the welding, I agree with the various views that butt welds are best, where possible, as they do not form an extra water and rust trap. Anyone with a steady hand, a bit of common sense, and the right equipment for inexperienced users (good, cheap MIG such as Clarke, the thinnest MIG wire, Argoshield Light or other brand of 95% Argon gas, and lots of offcuts of 0.9mm steel for practice, and maybe even the "cheat's tool", the copper backing bar) can learn to do decent butts, so there is no reason to avoid them.

I always feel that it is more useful in the long run to encourage people to learn to do it the best way rather than suggesting that they use a much less satisfactry method, just because it seems easier at the time. Skills acquired can be used more than once in a lifetime, and most people will be able to do this.




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