
How Do I Convert To Blade Fuses?
#1
Posted 28 October 2012 - 10:34 AM
Cheers, Jack
#3
Posted 28 October 2012 - 11:16 AM
#5
Posted 28 October 2012 - 11:44 AM
#6
Posted 28 October 2012 - 11:49 AM
Amps are amps regardless of what type of fuse they run through surely.
See the thread in reply #4
#7
Posted 28 October 2012 - 01:07 PM
Plus it will be the correct ratings which you can't easily get with blades as there aren't direct replacements.
The glass fuses work fine and will last long enough once replaced.
#8
Posted 28 October 2012 - 01:21 PM
to be honest there's no point. Replace the corroded and broken parts with new inline fuse holders and glass fuses and it'll work perfectly.
Plus it will be the correct ratings which you can't easily get with blades as there aren't direct replacements.
The glass fuses work fine and will last long enough once replaced.
Agreed!
New fuse box and set of fuses for about thirty quid...
#9
Posted 28 October 2012 - 02:42 PM
Amps are amps regardless of what type of fuse they run through surely.
It's not the Amps, it is the way the fuses are rated.
+1 for Barman's comments. PLEASE read the linked thread in post #4. While Amps are Amps, fuse ratings are not all handled the same.
The following will NOT apply to most of you but I will mention this as an example. Lucas wiring has a terrible reputation in the U.S. BMC/BL cars that made it over here would typically have problems where fuses would blow. Owners would go to the local parts store and buy what they thought were equivalent fuses based solely on the Amp rating of the fuses. The ratings were NOT the same between the glass fuses in the U.S. and those meeting British standards. This frequently resulted in a lot of cars having partially melted or completely destroyed wiring looms. Again, while Amps are Amps, fuses are not all rated the same way. Please read the thread linked in post #4.
All that being said, when I use blade fuses in circuits, I use a multiplier of 0.6 to convert from the British Standard to blade type fuse rating.
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