12 replies to this topic

[minisilverbullet]

I thought I would start a new thread as the old one was faultily long and messy. I have bloody annoying scraping grinding sound on coming from my drivers wheel arch. it is a pretty faint sound

The story goes. Shortly ( a month or so) after changing to mini sport 4 pot brakes, i stared to hear a very faint scrapping/scratching sound form the drivers wheel arch under braking. This could also be heard on long fast corners.

First thing i did was to check the castle nut. It came off very easily, but it was new and had only been on a month or so, so wasnt too concerned. I tightened it up and problem solved.

Though it came back 2 weeks later. I then suspected it was the caliper or disc, the brake pads seem to shake a round a bit, as there are not anti rattle shims, non fit the brakes. minisport didn't seem concerned about this and i have also seem a couple of threads on here explaining the same.

I noticed when i spun the wheel, there was a rattle sound, which suggested to me it was the bearings.

Next I changed the wheel bearing, was fairly hard to get the hub off the shaft. I tried a couple of blows with hammer, and then popped out for a hub puller. Once of there was a ring of black material on the shaft which had created a lip. This cleaned up and i fitted the bearing as and hub, paying attention to the preloading of the bearings method. using the flat washer.

Took the car for a shortish test and the noise was completely gone.

Though I took the car to work last week. 30 mins on the motorway and right at the end of the journey the noise started again. the same story driving home car was fine then at the end of the journey the noise returned, both under braking and normal driving, suggesting it is worse when hot.

I had the wheel off today, the noise i pointed out above (I noticed when i spun the wheel, there was a rattle sound, which suggested to me it was the bearings.) can still be heard.

two questions....'

Is it possible for the CV joint to make such a sound?

Is there a bearing in the CV joint?

It is driving me mad!

[charie t]

the cv joint is a bearing. If there is grease in it it won't be rattling with spinning the wheel
Did you change the tapered washer?

[minisilverbullet]

the cv joint is a bearing. If there is grease in it it won't be rattling with spinning the wheel
Did you change the tapered washer?

Yip tapered washer replaced, The CV boot is still good (no tears or splits)

[minisilverbullet]

A bit of a longwinded post I know, but any suggestion appreciated!

[hector193]

When my cv joint went it was like a loud repeating cracking noise only heard during 3 point turns when steering was at lock, didn't effect normal driving but clear something wasn't right. Most suppliers (dingbro, eurocar parts) will send you a reconditioned cv joint and put a surcharge on returning the old one, worth whipping it off ( hub off, push the joint down and a dunt with a mallet) repack the bearings with grease and see if your onto a winner!

[tiger99]

After a run, is the suspect hub hotter than the other? Feel around the back to see if the CV is hotter too. If one is much hotter than the other it can be safely assumed to be faulty, but beware of high temperature caused by slightly dragging brakes (one disc hotter than the other) which can confuse things.

[minisilverbullet]

After a run, is the suspect hub hotter than the other? Feel around the back to see if the CV is hotter too. If one is much hotter than the other it can be safely assumed to be faulty, but beware of high temperature caused by slightly dragging brakes (one disc hotter than the other) which can confuse things.

Had the car out today, hubs were both the same temp.

I did however notice that there was bit of play in the tierod bush on that side. I have poly bushes there. The bush looks ok, but the nut wasn't very tight. so torqued up the nut to compress the bush.

And what do you know = noise gone!

Now I aint counting my chickens yet, but it seems to make sense that noise was happening under braking and heavy cornering, so play in that bush could explain it.

[tiger99]

Poly tie rod bushes are regarded by some people as unsafe, because, not being very compressible, they transfer excess bending load into the rod, which eventually suffers a fatigue fracture. I would not be surprised if it was excessive cyclic stresses which caused yours to loosen.

Some people run a combination of rubber and poly to help solve the problem. If doing that, I would put the rubber on the back, so it is taking acceleration loads, while the poly on the front is taking braking loads. Others may put them on the opposite way. Either will help to relieve the problem of bending loads.

Edited by tiger99, 11 November 2012 - 09:49 AM.

[minisilverbullet]

I have poly on the front and rubber on the back

[tiger99]

Well, that should be ok then. I assume you did use a new nylok, and tighten it up till there was solid metal to metal contact between the thick front washer and the shoulder on the rod?

[ryanfisher67]

I have the same problem ! Is it just when you turn left/right but when you turn the opposite it seems fine ?

[indymini]

Check the dust shield behind the disc brakes. It might be loose.

[mike.]

Poly tie rod bushes are regarded by some people as unsafe, because, not being very compressible, they transfer excess bending load into the rod, which eventually suffers a fatigue fracture. I would not be surprised if it was excessive cyclic stresses which caused yours to loosen.

Some people run a combination of rubber and poly to help solve the problem. If doing that, I would put the rubber on the back, so it is taking acceleration loads, while the poly on the front is taking braking loads. Others may put them on the opposite way. Either will help to relieve the problem of bending loads.

This makes sense and i'm not questioning it, but what about rose jointed tie rods. They're solid mounted effectively