Head Torque
#1
Posted 06 November 2012 - 12:44 PM
Many thanks
#2
Posted 06 November 2012 - 12:55 PM
#3
Posted 06 November 2012 - 02:50 PM
50ft/lb's should be adequate for a 1330 :)
hmmmm.... are u sure a 1275 requires an initial torque of i think 33ft/lb's all round, then left for a short period (without running the car) maybe 10 mins then a further of the top of my head around 63 ft/lb's all round remembering the correct sequence for tighetening them up (in effect middle outwards) not sure if 50 ft/lb's would do the job...
#4
Posted 06 November 2012 - 03:34 PM
Different torque settings are linked to each.
I recently used old studs, dry and torqued to 45 ft/lb. The studs aren't very tough if you go up to 60+ you risk pulling the threads, according to reading up I did before the swap.
Haynes lists 50 ft/lb which is seemingly considered a little high.
Torquing should be in a spiral pattern from front centre stud followed by the one to the right in a clockwise pattern.
Increase the torque in increments of say 15 ft/lb, after torquing leave it for 100-200 miles then retorque the head (undo each stud half turn in order and retighten).
Worked for me anyway.
You don't use more torque for a bigger engine as the studs are the limiting factor to how much you can apply, as I understand it.
#5
Posted 06 November 2012 - 03:58 PM
Don't forget to re-set the valve clearances after initial torquing, then after re-torquing.
#6
Posted 06 November 2012 - 06:37 PM
#7
Posted 06 November 2012 - 07:14 PM
#8
Posted 06 November 2012 - 07:47 PM
http://encoreequipme...cifications.pdf
It looks like 50 ft-lbs is about tops
(I know it says American, but they are the same in fine thread)
#9
Posted 06 November 2012 - 08:09 PM
AC
#10
Posted 06 November 2012 - 08:50 PM
#11
Posted 07 November 2012 - 01:16 PM
my appologies...ive been thinking in Nm sorry guys
Edited by JonnyBMX, 07 November 2012 - 01:47 PM.
#12
Posted 07 November 2012 - 09:38 PM
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