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Head Torque


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#1 corrado vr6

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 12:44 PM

Hi guys, after my engine rebuild I'm now at the stage of re-torquing down the head bolts after 500 miles, I need to know the torque setting tho as mine is a 1330 would it be the same torque setting as the 1275 in the Haynes
Many thanks

#2 josrey

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 12:55 PM

50ft/lb's should be adequate for a 1330 :)

#3 JonnyBMX

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 02:50 PM

50ft/lb's should be adequate for a 1330 :)


hmmmm.... are u sure a 1275 requires an initial torque of i think 33ft/lb's all round, then left for a short period (without running the car) maybe 10 mins then a further of the top of my head around 63 ft/lb's all round remembering the correct sequence for tighetening them up (in effect middle outwards) not sure if 50 ft/lb's would do the job...

#4 Skortchio

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 03:34 PM

New studs or old, oiled or dry?

Different torque settings are linked to each.

I recently used old studs, dry and torqued to 45 ft/lb. The studs aren't very tough if you go up to 60+ you risk pulling the threads, according to reading up I did before the swap.

Haynes lists 50 ft/lb which is seemingly considered a little high.

Torquing should be in a spiral pattern from front centre stud followed by the one to the right in a clockwise pattern.

Increase the torque in increments of say 15 ft/lb, after torquing leave it for 100-200 miles then retorque the head (undo each stud half turn in order and retighten).

Worked for me anyway.

You don't use more torque for a bigger engine as the studs are the limiting factor to how much you can apply, as I understand it.

#5 Cooperman

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 03:58 PM

I always use 50 lb.ft dry. Initial tightening is done to 30 lb.ft, then to 40lb. ft, then finally to 50 lb.ft in the correct sequence. Run engine for at least 2 complete heat cycles then, IN TURN, loosen each nut by 1/2 a turn in athe correct sequence and re-torque to 50 lb. ft. Do this with the engine fully cold.
Don't forget to re-set the valve clearances after initial torquing, then after re-torquing.

#6 JonnyBMX

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 06:37 PM

where has this 50 ft lbs come from? haynes ( i have no other source) suggests higher

#7 Pigeonto

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 07:14 PM

woaahhhh, steady now!! never used more than 45 on my 1330 and even then I grit my teeth as I reach that figure.OK, I have 11 of them not 9 but 45 is loads for a 3/8" stud. It's all my mate uses on his 150 hp turbo too. You sure you're not looking at the main bearing cap figures?

#8 racingenglishcars

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 07:47 PM

I'm afraid I will have to agree with Pigeonto
http://encoreequipme...cifications.pdf
It looks like 50 ft-lbs is about tops
(I know it says American, but they are the same in fine thread)

#9 ACDodd

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 08:09 PM

40lbft oiled for a stock A+ stud and nut.

AC

#10 billzer

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 08:50 PM

there must be something wrong with my bolts or tourqe wrench i tightened to 30 40 50 and it peed water through the head , set the tourqe to 70 and tightened up again , with no leaks , i had to drain the oil and water as it turned to milkshake, color, refiled with clean oil new antifreeze , seems ok ?

#11 JonnyBMX

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Posted 07 November 2012 - 01:16 PM

so your saying haynes is wrong?

my appologies...ive been thinking in Nm sorry guys :(

Edited by JonnyBMX, 07 November 2012 - 01:47 PM.


#12 billzer

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Posted 07 November 2012 - 09:38 PM

no i think the tourqe bar was knackered, or bad cylinder bolts not sure , i had the head skimmed and used new gasket ,




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