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Mini Cooper 998 Screamer Nut And Bolt Rebuild


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#121 rust - what rust?

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Posted 07 February 2013 - 03:20 PM

I've got an early 97 MPi, bought back in Oct 12, now just out from the body shop having had (guess what) scuttle, sills, A panel, front wing repairs and a new boot repair panel.
It's interesting to see the early strip down photos on your car, the front end on your car looked so much worse than mine. I'd have passed out if I'd seen that much rust after removing the various parts!! Not for the faint hearted, well done you!! I count myself lucky that I had only 2 small hole on the bulkhead that were repairable. (But then I didn't delve in too much!) It certainly is a very weak spot on the MPis.... There's still lot of rust to work on, only now I'm hoping its not (so) structural! (Time will tell).
Your thread was the inspiration for my MPi repairs. Gave me the nudge I needed to open my wallet and get on with it.
I now know I still have rot in my seams (And many other places!! lol!!).....some of your pictures look VERY familiar! I'll have to take my chances for now! I'm not anywhwre near as handy as you.
Keep up the fantastic work, and the informative thread. Brilliant to see a full strip down. Great photos holding a wealth of info. I'm sure I'll be coming back to it when the next phase of my 'operation MPi' is needed!!
Like you, my mini is going nowhere, they continue to become rarer these days, even (or maybe especially) the younger ones like ours!!
What is for sure, yours will definitely be one of the most 'protected' MPis out there on the road. I'm waiting in anticipation for the next instalment......

Finally, on the rust thing, I gave a friend of mine my old '82 city about 5 years ago (in 'Nautilus blue' if memory serves me). It's bog standard, right down to drums all round. Original paint (Yes its very faded and patchy). Its celebrating its 31st birthday in March. We have compared cars and there was far less rot on the scuttle and boot floor on the '82 city than the '97 Cooper. What happened, Rover?

Edited by rust - what rust?, 07 February 2013 - 11:23 PM.


#122 Petrol

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 09:02 PM

Glad it gave you the inspiration to sort it. A stitch in time saves nine as they say. The scuttle / dash top is in a very poor state. This car came from Wales by the seaside, not good! Add to that, it was stored for 4 years probably in a damp garage which made things worse. Wet carpet and the doors shut = never dry out.

This is a pic of my second Mini. It also came from the seaside and at 3 years old had some scabs on the sills, rear valence & rear 1/4's.

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This is my first Mini which was 6 years old when I bought it. This needed inner and outer sills.

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Lots of mods to this, blueprinted engine including cylinder compression balancing , big valve head, cam, the works

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Is that a novadash? Roll top Recaro's were from an RS2000

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Prepped the boot frame, notice I have welded 2 nuts to get rid of the self tappers. I will use button top stainless allen bolts here as they are low profile

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All rust and carbon gone, right to the bottom of the pitting

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Cheers

Pete

#123 rally515

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 09:10 PM

Ohh by-ecc 'cocker,
loving that mini&boat photo.

Good idea on the boot aswell.

#124 will_

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 06:45 PM

Your attention to detail is brilliant, also looks like you have the patience of a saint !!
I've got a '97 P Mini Cooper Sportpacks in Almond green I'm yet to start, I've so far only removed lots of rusty panels ready for some intensive welding !! I'll follow yours and see how your doing. Good luck !!

#125 Petrol

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Posted 10 February 2013 - 10:01 PM

Patience seems to have come with age. I used to go at everything like a bull in a china shop but not any more. It would be great for this car to be properly sorted when it's done and you can't rush.

Rather than using pliers to remove plastic clips like this which would probably damage them

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It's easier to use a socket

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Now that the paint on the inside of the door skin is hard I stuck some flashing tape on. I applied it with a filler spreader to reduce air bubbles and achieve maximum contact

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Inside of the doors will be treated with box section wax which is white spirit based. Flash band is bitumen based and the box section wax would affect the bond.

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I have seen this stuff come off before now, to prevent this happening I seam sealed around it.

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With the sealant dry, I then brushed on Electrox zinc paint to the door skin lip

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Then the door frame

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Clamped the skin on and folded over the seam. When the skin lip was at upright I brushed Electrox onto it.

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What this has done is effectively Z-Coated, zinc primer within the seam. Pic of inside of door where the skin meets the frame. It's squeezed the Electrox out

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Bit more work to do to ensure proper rust protection but having that Electrox within the fold is much better than nothing.

Pete

#126 Petrol

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Posted 15 February 2013 - 09:42 PM

I went to collect an A post stiffener I won on Ebay and boy was I glad I won it! When I got there he gave me this

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Scuttle will be replaced but the dash upper rail is in excellent condition and it came with the most important bit, the top of the bulkhead

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Think this is from an 80's Mini, no rust around the windscreen lip

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Pete

#127 Petrol

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 10:32 PM

Now that the weather is improving slightly, yes it is slight :D It's time to get cracking on the shell. The boot floor is a bit daunting having no wheel arches. I am also lacking in reference points on the OS to fit that arch so I am thinking about how to sort that. A complete new boot floor seems to be the best bet although somewhat expensive. Another problem is I can't fit it onto a spit as they use the rear arches as mounting points.

Whilst I have a think about that lot, decided to remove the scuttle. This is the extent of the rust

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Split the scuttle, dash top rail and bulkhead repair section down

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This looks easy to sort, bulkhead repair panel offered up

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Some other pics, boot lid frame painted ready for skinning

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Magnum door skin had some warping. This is another reason why I paint panels in gloss, it's easy to see imperfections and sort them. This was filled with Max Meyer stopper. I will leave this a month or so before flatting back

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Bonnet is also sorted

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Pete

Edited by Petrol, 20 February 2013 - 10:43 PM.


#128 Noah

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 10:38 PM

Another great update.

You can get a discount from Minispares and Minispeed via paying for TMF+ think its something like 7.5%.

#129 Petrol

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 11:01 PM

Another great update.

You can get a discount from Minispares and Minispeed via paying for TMF+ think its something like 7.5%.


Thanks for the info, it's postage that kills prices. I'm 15 Mins away from Minisport and it often works out cheaper. I wish Minisport would give me a bit of discount, I have spent quite a bit there, probably a grand. I Might sort a big list of stuff I need and see if they will do a deal.

Pete

#130 Noah

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 11:02 PM

Easiest way is to bargain with them in store face to face.

Its still legal to bargain with shops! I tried it in Subway. Didn't work, but worth a go I suppose!

#131 mini-luke

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 11:09 PM

Its still legal to bargain with shops!


Course it is. You don't ask you don't get!

#132 Petrol

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 08:27 PM

I'll give it a go ;D

Marked the bulkhead out with masking tape

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Cut with a 1mm disk in an angle grinder. Also cleaned up the repair piece

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Intergrips ensured the right angle

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Started welding but ran out of wire

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Pete

#133 Artstu

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 08:29 PM

Amazing dedication given how flipping cold it was today.

#134 Petrol

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Posted 22 February 2013 - 09:08 PM

Yeah it was freezing. Not much better today either. Got the bulkhead welded up. Decided not to sand it down too much. You can't see it and I want it as strong as poss.

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Inside

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The result of a fluid leak / spill

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Got the bulkhead done and primed

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Thanks for looking

Pete

#135 Petrol

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Posted 01 March 2013 - 10:43 PM

Pic of the inner wing where it meets the X member. This area is a bit complicated as it has several skins and seams

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Cut most of it out, also removed the X member to inner wing stiffener. Again both were rusty

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Pic from other side, also notice I split this seam

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Close up of seam

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Looks like I am gonna have to split / check every seam on the shell.

Plug welded the X member to inner wing stiffener first

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This enabled me to get some zinc paint on the inside of the X member

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Bit late but carried on

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Inner wing stiffener spot / plug welded on

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Stich welded to the X member stiffener

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Finally, tacked on the inner wing repair piece

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Thanks for looking

Pete




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