Hi all
Ive built a prototype catch tank to the breather off of the fly wheel bit. I cut the black cylinder off and fitted some hosing to a bottle.
Its not going quite as planned as all the C**p is coming out from the base of the pipe where the bolts hold it in. It obviously needs a gasket.
What i wanted to know is if its worth keeping it on? A friend told me that the standard breather bits are too restrictive and advised me to make the pipe bigger by welding a new neck above the cylinder thing but as i cant weld i decided to just cut it all off!!
Ive also drilled two holes into the plastic bottle? Is that needed? I did it incase it needed to expand/contract? I know ive done it backwards (fit it the ask what it does and if its any good) but thats me!!!
I can take some pics if needed
Thanks everyone
Johnny
Catch tank trials
Started by
johnnysti
, Mar 29 2006 06:31 PM
11 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 29 March 2006 - 06:31 PM
#2
Posted 29 March 2006 - 06:34 PM
i might sound stupid but what have you made it for?????
#3
Posted 29 March 2006 - 06:59 PM
A bloke the father-in-law works for races minis and was telling me that the mini engine likes to breath and that the standard set-up is restrictive and told me what hes done. Granted, he left the cylinder thing on but like i said i cant weld and when i took it off, it was full of yellow snot so thought as i can empty the plastic catch can, it wont be needed.
Here are some pics of what ive done. i hope this shows better than i can explain
http://img.photobuck...yst1/catch1.jpg
http://img.photobuck...yst1/catch2.jpg
http://img.photobuck...yst1/catch3.jpg
http://img.photobuck...yst1/catch4.jpg
http://img.photobuck...yst1/catch5.jpg
Johnny
Here are some pics of what ive done. i hope this shows better than i can explain
http://img.photobuck...yst1/catch1.jpg
http://img.photobuck...yst1/catch2.jpg
http://img.photobuck...yst1/catch3.jpg
http://img.photobuck...yst1/catch4.jpg
http://img.photobuck...yst1/catch5.jpg
Johnny
#4
Posted 29 March 2006 - 08:27 PM
interesting....
You may want to mount the catch tank higher though or you'll just suck out all the oil into the bottle, and the gearbox'll be left with nothing in it! (that's probably leading to half your problems!).
Also, the cans are full of "wire wool". they act as a filter to try to ensure the oil stays in the engine, and the vapour escapes and condensates in the can. Just wash them out with a pressure washer and swill some brake cleaner around in them (off the car obviously).
You may want to mount the catch tank higher though or you'll just suck out all the oil into the bottle, and the gearbox'll be left with nothing in it! (that's probably leading to half your problems!).
Also, the cans are full of "wire wool". they act as a filter to try to ensure the oil stays in the engine, and the vapour escapes and condensates in the can. Just wash them out with a pressure washer and swill some brake cleaner around in them (off the car obviously).
#5
Posted 29 March 2006 - 08:44 PM
What spec is the engine, I doubt a standard or mild tune engine requires any more crank case breathing. You found the problem with yours as you say the flame trap was full of gloop. All you need to do it clean this and any others out and it should be fine
Have you though about posative crankcase breathing????. The A series works well with a vacuum in the sump.
Have you though about posative crankcase breathing????. The A series works well with a vacuum in the sump.
#6
Posted 29 March 2006 - 09:06 PM
[
quote name='pikey7' date='Mar 29 2006, 09:27 PM' post='265183']
interesting....
You may want to mount the catch tank higher though or you'll just suck out all the oil into the bottle, and the gearbox'll be left with nothing in it! (that's probably leading to half your problems!).
Also, the cans are full of "wire wool". they act as a filter to try to ensure the oil stays in the engine, and the vapour escapes and condensates in the can. Just wash them out with a pressure washer and swill some brake cleaner around in them (off the car obviously).
[/quote]
It hard to get it much higher because if you bend the pipe work to much it will kink? Where do you think would be the best place to have it? Like i said i just want the best for the engine and will take any helpful advice!!
Its just had a stage 2 lcb and reverse megaphone system fitted alone with a weber 45 on a 6" inlet manifold and then dialed in on the rolling road at slark. Its a heavily modd'd 1290
Johnny
quote name='pikey7' date='Mar 29 2006, 09:27 PM' post='265183']
interesting....
You may want to mount the catch tank higher though or you'll just suck out all the oil into the bottle, and the gearbox'll be left with nothing in it! (that's probably leading to half your problems!).
Also, the cans are full of "wire wool". they act as a filter to try to ensure the oil stays in the engine, and the vapour escapes and condensates in the can. Just wash them out with a pressure washer and swill some brake cleaner around in them (off the car obviously).
[/quote]
It hard to get it much higher because if you bend the pipe work to much it will kink? Where do you think would be the best place to have it? Like i said i just want the best for the engine and will take any helpful advice!!
Its just had a stage 2 lcb and reverse megaphone system fitted alone with a weber 45 on a 6" inlet manifold and then dialed in on the rolling road at slark. Its a heavily modd'd 1290
Johnny
#7
Posted 29 March 2006 - 09:09 PM
up in the corner by the big subby mounting bolt. You don't need a big tank by any means, Coke can size will suffice (and you'll only have to drain it every 6 months (if that), so no biggy!)
#8
Posted 29 March 2006 - 09:17 PM
The correct term for these canisters is 'Flame Trap' the primary reason there is this so called wire wool, is to prevent any chance of a flame reaching the sump, in the event of an intake backfire, resulting in a sump explosion. There is no other reason for them, the do not stop oil vapour as that is the form of the oil. Only relevant if you still use posative crankcase ventilation.
https://www.burtonpo...al/tt_eng2.html
https://www.burtonpo...al/tt_eng2.html
#9
Posted 29 March 2006 - 09:18 PM
Cool. Next to the washer bottle?Does it matter it its not up right? Also, does it need a couple of holes of in it to let air in/out?
#10
Posted 29 March 2006 - 10:00 PM
This is where mines mounted, not plumbed in in that pic tho.
#11
Posted 29 March 2006 - 10:12 PM
for me to get my can to do that i will need to make the pipe go 180 deg unless it can be located at an angle. If this was to be the case, as long as i checked it regulary and empty it there shouldnt be any problems with it running back down?
The two holes i have drilled in the can have air forcing its way out of the very strongly with some oil vapour around the area. Are these needed? I was told that if i didnt it would explode!!
It needs a gasket where it clamps to thefly wheel housing as alot of the c**p is running down the back of the housing.
The two holes i have drilled in the can have air forcing its way out of the very strongly with some oil vapour around the area. Are these needed? I was told that if i didnt it would explode!!
It needs a gasket where it clamps to thefly wheel housing as alot of the c**p is running down the back of the housing.
#12
Posted 29 March 2006 - 10:16 PM
you should put a gasket on there even if you don't run it to a tank. and clean it! half of the crud running out is probably the yellow gunk that has been "filtered" over the years. (and will be diluting and running back to your gearbox!)
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