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Wire Warming Up


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#16 craigr91

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Posted 14 November 2012 - 05:10 PM

iVe not been in boot as its a pain in the a** to shut so I tested the voltage at the Wong mounted solenoid... :)

#17 Ethel

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Posted 14 November 2012 - 05:20 PM

iVe not been in boot as its a pain in the a** to shut so I tested the voltage at the Wong mounted solenoid... :)


Is that another cheap Chinese part? :P

Voltages should be measured across components, put the meter across both battery terminals for a fairer test. I think if the alternator's regulator was goosed the voltages would just soar proportional to the revs.

#18 craigr91

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Posted 14 November 2012 - 08:06 PM

I should have said that there was a lil choke on as it was early in morning.... I better fond some time and check once choke off and rev car to see what voltage does?

#19 craigr91

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Posted 14 November 2012 - 08:07 PM

Only reason I used solenoid is because my boot is a pig to close and lock...

#20 tiger99

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 09:38 AM

If the alternator voltage was out of control, which can happen, you would have more than one wire getting hot. Most likely the sidelight, tail light, dashboard and other warning lamps would be blowing frequently, and possibly the radio would fail. The other very big symptom, which starts at not much over the normal 14.4V, would be severe battery gassing. An unregulated alternator can produce sufficient voltage at high revs to be potentially lethal to you, not just the car systems, but it does not happen very often. The usual failure mode is low output.

If you can, check your multimeter somehow. A brand new AA Duracell measures 1.62V for instance. Other brands will differ.

#21 craigr91

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 04:04 PM

will check that with my multi Meyer and works fluke Meyer later, cheers

#22 craigr91

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 07:01 PM

checked again, seems my multimeter is wrong, (all tests inc. rear screen on as i didnt notice it on) 14.46v idling, 12.97v headlights on, 13.2v sidelights and revving with headlights 14v..... seems alternator is ok, back to the drawing board?

cheers, Craig

#23 mini-luke

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 07:09 PM

Sounds fine, I'd take a closer look at the headlamp bulb that's stuck in

#24 craigr91

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 07:21 PM

ill upload a pic later, if u reckon i need to get to it ill be having new headlights :)

#25 craigr91

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Posted 16 November 2012 - 08:00 AM

I may sound dumb but the light switch mention in the first reply is meaning the switch in front of gearstick and the dip switch is what on the stalk? Cheers

#26 craigr91

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Posted 16 November 2012 - 07:38 PM

So I need to check headligt were I can't get access and my indicator stalk is on the right, is it hard to swap em over in terms of wiring?

Gonna get some new headlights too as if the bulb ever goes I've got no access, any recommended and what are the ones which have a yellow/purple look in the bowl?


Nevermind house that jack built, seems I've got the car he built :)

#27 tiger99

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Posted 17 November 2012 - 05:40 PM

It is not the first multimeter problem we have seen on the forum in the short time that I have been around. Chinese again, I suspect, as they nearly all are.

#28 craigr91

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Posted 28 December 2012 - 11:00 PM

it was from maplin... not too expensive... problem still here unfortunatly :(

when headlights turned on revs seem to drop so idle isnt soo smooth anymore and i think ima take it some where as i seem to have lost my horn, flasher, interior lights and radio (fuse) however it was a 50a fuse? fuse defo says 50a and 25 hold......?




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