11 replies to this topic

[ricekikr]

I just finished installing the engine. It takes a few tries to start and it almost always starts when I just released the key. This is in 27C (80F) temperature.

1275 / Hif44 / Mechanical Pump

Choke on
Crank Crank Crank No Start
Crank Crank Crank No Start
Crank Crank Crank (release key) Start. (This part is weird to me, how come it starts just as I release the key?)

It revs freely, idles great. Couldn't test drive yet, wheels are off the ground.

Then when it starts it sounds rough like an exhaust leak (chug chug chug) BUT I unplug one spark plug wire at a time, it doesn't change anything (this is how I find a misfiring cylinder in all other cars).

[Noah]

Thats an..Interesting way of locating a misfire.

Mine With a fully charged battery will start with 2 Attempts. First to get the fuel into the carb and the second it fires.

If its being jumped it takes alot longer.

And mine always starts on the release of the key. Never understood that.. Its like that key controls the spark plugs O.o

Edited by Noah, 04 December 2012 - 12:02 AM.

[ricekikr]

First to get the fuel into the carb and the second it fires.

Will an electronic pump make it start the first try?

[ricekikr]

I think mines 2 black/white and 2 white, I'll double check. 2 to the distributor + 2 for tach + another.

Edit: I don't remember seeing a wire from solenoid to coil. This is an electronic distributor, if that makes a difference.

Edited by ricekikr, 04 December 2012 - 12:51 AM.

[ricekikr]

Just checked the wiring diagram, there indeed should be a wire to the starter solenoid, gona check the cars wiring later. Thanks.

[Wigeon Incognito]

Mine turns over three or four times then just noisily bursts into life. Simple!

[Algordo1100]

Ah.
To my feeble mind it suggests that your starter motor is drawing power away from your spark. So when you release the key and thus cut the power to the starter motor, you have a healthy spark and enough momentum in your engine to fire up.
This is an issue that plagued the car industry for years. They could make the starter crank like a soldier from cold, but that voltage had to come from somewhere. And it meant that the coil had insufficient power for a healthy spark, so starting was an issue. And vice versa the other way. Healthy spark but no cranking power.
The answer was the ballast resistor ignition set up.
What loom/coil/starter do you have?

[ricekikr]

What year is the mini ?

The answer was the ballast resistor ignition set up.
What loom/coil/starter do you have?

91 Mainstream cooper (1275 Hif44 electronic ignition). Not sure about the other stuff.

[Ethel]

Electronic ignition shouldn't be ballasted, but check it has the correct coil. There'll probably be a part number on it that you can cross reference, GCL143 was the Unipart original. Failing that you can measure the resistance across the LT terminals it should be around 0.7 to 0.86 ohms.

[BritishRacingGreen]

With regards to the 'chug' sound of the engine, mine sounded like you describe, and the cause was and inlet manifold air leak. Spray some brake cleaner on all your gasket joins (with the engine cold) and if the revs rise then that'll tell you if that seal is leaking

[ricekikr]

With regards to the 'chug' sound of the engine, mine sounded like you describe, and the cause was and inlet manifold air leak. Spray some brake cleaner on all your gasket joins (with the engine cold) and if the revs rise then that'll tell you if that seal is leaking

Funny you mention that. Just replaced it and it starts with one click. But replaced it because of exhaust leak, guess 2-in-1 repair lol.

But before changing gasket, it started with one click with choke on. Yesterday it took several tries.

Replaced intake/exhaust gasket. Took off carb, cleaned it, there was some dried-up-gasoline-film floating around. Set float level, set idle fuel mixture.

Bam. One click starting WITHOUT choke. (still on mechanical pump)

[Dev20]

Don't mean to hijack this thread but i'm in a similar situation. My '92 1275 with hif 44 struggles on start up too even with a new battery. I went into minispares with the intention of getting a new coil, the GCL 143 as Ethel mentioned but was advised to get GCL 127 which didn't seem right but took their advice anyway. I also don't have a wire going from the starter solenoid to the coil. Any ideas?