10 replies to this topic

[blue blood]

Hello everyone.

I really need some final pieces of help before I spend a chunk of change. I am at the stage now where I am going to start getting parts for my brake setup. It stands so far as having the standard rear brakes with alloy fins and on the front a set of Tarox 6pots.

Because I have a minus there is a massive squeeze to fit everything in and so I think I want to opt for a wilwood pedal box using some of their smaller remote reservoirs.
This is what I purpose on getting:

http://www.wilwood.c...heets/ds762.pdf
which is a pedal box for reverse mounted cylinder and a pedal ratio of 6.25 to 1

and then I was thinking of using these cylinders:
http://www.wilwood.c...heets/ds608.pdf
They are 3/4bore sized cylinders.

My query is will two of these for my brake masters be fine? (with the bore size and what not) and will one be o.k to use for my standard clutch?(I am using a standard mini engine until it brakes, in which I will do a conversion)

To round everything off I would like to use on of these reservoirs to keep the IVA man happy.
http://www.motorspor...t-p-246758.html
Will this be compatible with the master cylinders?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Kind regards in advance Blue

[blue blood]

Anyone? There has got to be a brake guru somewhere ?

Regards Blue

[The Principal]

try these - http://www.kentautod...ox-complete-set

[ibrooks]

What are you doing about the brake bias? IVA does not allow an adjustable device of any sort (unless it's been rendered permanently non-adjustable by, for example, welding the full length of the threads).

The reservoir would be fine as it's got a level switch. Being "compatible" with the master cylinders is just a matter of having a pipe with the correct ends (one for the master cylinder and one for the fitting on the bottom of the reservoir). Since it's purely a gravity feed then almot any pipe suitable for brake fluid would do. It looks like a barb fitting on the bottom of the bottle - you can get screw in barb fittings for the master cylinders so shouldn't be a problem to stick a suitable length of flexi pipe with jubilee clips on each end. Might be a bit small for normal jubilee clips but ones similar to Mikalor clamps are available in those sorts of sizes - often called petrol pipe clips, you can also get a plastic pipe clamp that works on a ratchet which you just squeeze closed but I've never liked the idea myself but the major car manufacturers use them so presumably they do the job.

Iain

[blue blood]

Thank-you for your input 'i brooks' that helps a little with the reservoir. As for the bias yes it would all be welded up and rendered obsolete(once setup of course). Does anyone have any clue if the master cylinders I picked out will be any good for the brakes and clutch?

Oh and thanks for that 'Princiapl' but the KAD unit doesn't clear a minus bonnet without it being modified.

Kind regards Blue

[ibrooks]

It's going to depend on the weight distribution of your car and the amount of braking effort you get from the brakes at each end. You might be able to get away with equal cylinders for front and rear and then set the bias with the bar or you might find out that you have too much imbalance and need to decrease the size of one of the masters to get it close enough that you can then do the fine adjustments with the bar. It's not likely to be something that any of us can give you a meaningful answer to so it'll be a case of best guess and then some real life trial and error with the car.

This is one of my big bugbears with IVA since it's not easy for someone to do this sort of testing on a brake system at home without the specialist equipment.

Price up the master cylinders - they are usually pretty cheap so buying a pair of 3/4" ones can be a start but if you find that you don't have enough adjustment on the bias bar you can swap one out easy enough. At least this is the case with the Girling type ones I use.

Iain

[blue blood]

Thank-you so much for that 'ibrooks' thats really informative. I may have a larger one on the front actually to be fair as the back will have buger all weight to it. In terms of the clutch will a 3/4 be alright you recon?

Kind regards Blue

[JVA10L]

I know this sounds upside down, but a smaller diameter cylinder gives greater hydraulic pressure than a larger one (for the same pedal pressure). So what you need on a Mini, or any front wheel drive car, is a 0.625" cylinder on the front and a 0.75" on the rear. Depending on the type of front brakes (disc size etc.) you will still need a balance bar or a rear pressure limiter. I think the clutch master is 0.70" as standard so I would stick with that.

[spaceframemini]

I run a
3/4 clutch
5/8 front with alloy 4 pots
3/4 rear with kad disks but with my car it locked up the rears . With the car been lightweight like mine you will probably. Need a 1 rear as I put a inline bias valve to the rear to reduce pressure

[blue blood]

Thanks for that guys. Do you recon I would be able to get away with using a 0.75 bore for the clutch?

Regards Blue

[JVA10L]

I cannot remember the size of the standard clutch master (0.70 or 0.75) but SPACEFRAMEMINI runs a 0.75 so it should be OK. Pedal will be slightly heavier than 0.7 but not by much.