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Wheel Bearing Changed But Still Loose


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#1 mister bridger

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Posted 28 December 2012 - 01:16 PM

Just changed my front nearside wheelbearing. Straightforward job but hasn't eliminated the play. Is this because i was tight and bought the cheap ghk108 minispares one instead of the Timken one (four times the price!) or could the problem be elsewhere? Did think of possible play in the steering rack but can't feel any at the steering wheel. Mk1 with Cooper 7" discs (not 7.5" Cooper S)

#2 tiger99

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Posted 28 December 2012 - 01:20 PM

Were the bearings a tight fit in the hubs, needing to be tapped in with a drift and hammer? Also, was the CV tight in the inner races? Did the new bearings have a spacer, or are they the type with it built in (inner races protruding)? And, did you follow the correct procedure, torquing up initially with the flat washer before fitting the split cone? Basically I am trying to get at where the free play is occurring, i.e. in the bearings, between bearings and hub, or between bearings and shaft.

#3 mister bridger

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Posted 28 December 2012 - 01:24 PM

Was a good tight fit, drifted in with a tube of the right diameter. Cooper hubs don't use the flat washer and split cone, they're same as drum hubs. Built in spacer type with ball bearings. The old ones were tapered roller type. Must admit I didn't try inner races against CV

Edited by mister bridger, 28 December 2012 - 01:26 PM.


#4 The Principal

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Posted 28 December 2012 - 01:26 PM

just checked the minispares site and those are rear bearings and obsolete, think you need these GHK1140MS

#5 mister bridger

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Posted 28 December 2012 - 01:27 PM

Sorry, Typo! I meant GHK 1018

#6 The Principal

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Posted 28 December 2012 - 01:28 PM

the drum version is GHK1018 for Cooper 997/998 :)

#7 mister bridger

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Posted 28 December 2012 - 01:30 PM

Yes thats the one I fitted

#8 The Principal

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Posted 28 December 2012 - 01:32 PM

can you see if they racefaces are flush against the hub boss, mine drove me round the bend using the combined spacers, they do fit ok just need to check the clearances and persevere

#9 mister bridger

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Posted 28 December 2012 - 01:37 PM

Certainly felt like they were fully "home" when I drifted them in. Just checked again, jacking under the lower arm so suspension is still loaded and seemed ok. Only feels loose when jacked under subframe so suspension is hanging. So is all ok or is there a problem elsewhere?

#10 The Principal

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Posted 28 December 2012 - 01:40 PM

Does the outer CV move exactly with the hub, i.e no play between the hub and outer CV? is there any wear on the outer CV running face?

Have you checked the ball joints?

How much play are we talking about?

Edited by The Principal, 28 December 2012 - 01:41 PM.


#11 mister bridger

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Posted 28 December 2012 - 01:46 PM

bacon sarnie beckons, will try again in a mo! CV looked fine and no apreciable clicking on full lock

#12 mister bridger

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Posted 28 December 2012 - 02:12 PM

Ok, just had another look and there is definite play in the bottom swivel joint, so will have to get a set after new year. Was probably nothing wrong with the wheel bearing I've just replaced. D'oh!

#13 The Principal

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Posted 28 December 2012 - 02:26 PM

ohh well least you found the problem

#14 mister bridger

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Posted 28 December 2012 - 03:30 PM

Bloody bottom swivel wasn't even done up!!!! Been put together barely hand tight and the lock washer knocked over. With no shims in place at all it's still a bit slack so I think a whole new set is order.

Edited by mister bridger, 28 December 2012 - 03:30 PM.


#15 The Principal

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Posted 28 December 2012 - 03:37 PM

i'd go for the originals, tried the cheap ones and they need loads more lapping to seat properly

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