2 replies to this topic

[Keith Grendahl]

Previous owner chisled off the welded seat brackets in order to install a homemade seat bracket and non-mini seats. I want to install mini seats but need recommendations on how to proceed. I am in the U.S. and we don't have the MOT requirements that you have but I do want something that is structurally sound.

As you can see in the photos, the crossmember has holes from where the welded brackets were removed and a drilled hole in each side for a long bolt to pass through it to hold the seat base. Other than that, the xmember is sound.

I would use the welding services of a local antique car restoration shop. I've toured their facility and their work is impressive. The owner has a MK1 that he made into a convertible so they would have a good template for where to install the seat brackets.

What do you recommend?

1) Install a new crossmember from minispares? If it doesn't already have captive nuts fitted, I could have them fitted.

2) Weld up the holes and get a smooth surface to weld bolt-on seat brackets to the crossmember? Is the top to bottom position of the bracket correct in the photo I took of the bracket held in place with a clamp?

3) Weld up the holes and fit the bolt-on bracket with riv-nuts? I can't see when I would ever need to be able to remove the bracket, that is why I have considered welding the bracket in place.

Thank you in advance,
Keith

 Seats.jpg   60.55K   6 downloads

 Side View Old Seat.jpg   68.61K   4 downloads

 Bolt thru xmember.jpg   106.22K   22 downloads

 Xmember.jpg   110.17K   32 downloads

 Seat Bracket.jpg   59.87K   20 downloads

[sonikk4]

I would weld the holes up and grind smooth. Then offer the seat up with the brackets you have got to see if all is well. If so mark of the holes and weld in captive nuts.

That gives you the option of removing the brackets at a later date to add modified ones.

[tiger99]

It is hard to be sure from the photograph, but your crossmember seems to have a lot of holes, due to corrosion from within or mabe other damage, particularly on top of the tunnel. (I could of course just be seeing dirt, if so please ignore the rest.) It is vital to the rigidity of the shell, and I suggest that you replace it. The proper captive nuts will be welded to the new crossmember.

While it is out, be sure to check the floor and inner sill which are exposed, as you get very few opportunities to access those areas, and they always benefit from extra rust protection, as will the inside of the new crossmember.

Changing the crossmember is not a huge job, but best not to jack the car while it is out, and keep it sitting on a level surface. It can all be plug and seam welded from above.