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Electronic Ignition No Spark


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#1 feargal kerr

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Posted 16 January 2013 - 01:25 PM

Hi guys I have a 1275 engine I was drivin along the road one day and the car just stopped dead I checked if there was any spark going to the plugs and there was only the odd faint one. The car was fitted with an electronic ignition in the distributor to replace the points which was a we black box so I ordered a new one of Simon BBC (powerspark) and replaced the coil which was a Lucas dlb 105 and replaced it with an intermotor gold coil new distributor cap aswel. can anyone please help this has me baffled:(

#2 lrostoke

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Posted 16 January 2013 - 01:44 PM

How is the new module wired ??

#3 feargal kerr

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Posted 16 January 2013 - 02:15 PM

Just possotive and negative to the ignition coil from the module and the live feed goin to the coil aswel.

#4 lrostoke

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Posted 16 January 2013 - 02:37 PM

OK from that I'm guessing the coil is a full 12v coil not ballasted, so wiring should be fine.

check your 12v feed is a good connection

Its possible you dropped unlucky and got a dodgy unit.

Also I've seen a few dodgy rotor arms, may be worth checking that..seen them to long and they catch on the poles in the dizzy cap.

What about damp, been through any water or heavy rain

#5 molliesargent

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Posted 16 January 2013 - 04:06 PM

We have bought 2 from him the first one we got worked really well then he changed to powerspark and it needed abit of modification to even get it on. Mini was running very strangley when we first put it on although it seems to have fixed itself [for now] Drop him an email or powerspark have a telephone number on the packaging if you still have it.

#6 KernowCooper

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Posted 16 January 2013 - 05:40 PM

Get someone else to crank it over and see with the Coil lead out if it sparks holding the Coil lead to the block, use insulated pliers if you have them, if no spark the coil is not being triggered by the ignition module, as above see if the coil has a 12v supply to the + connection. Have a look at the dist cap carbon brush and for cracking where the carbon brush fits and check the rotor arm as alrsdy suggested.

Engine earth lead is ok I assume?

Edited by KernowCooper, 16 January 2013 - 05:41 PM.


#7 feargal kerr

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Posted 16 January 2013 - 09:09 PM

Yeah checked all the wiring and coil. It was only sparking on one lead and changed the magnetic pickup(black ring under the rotor arm) and all four sparking now still not goin right tho? Do I need a condenser if I have an electronic module?



#8 feargal kerr

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Posted 16 January 2013 - 09:12 PM

Yeah I had to modify the backing plate for it to fit on aswel.


#9 KernowCooper

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Posted 16 January 2013 - 09:56 PM

"Do I need a condenser if I have an electronic module?" No only used with points

#10 feargal kerr

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Posted 16 January 2013 - 11:56 PM

Ok thanks the cars runnin but not to healthy its poppin and bangin is this because i need to set the timing or whys it not running right?

#11 KernowCooper

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Posted 17 January 2013 - 12:15 AM

Popping and banging, well the timing would have to be seriously out to produce what you describe. Do you have a timing light to see if the timing is fluctuating ? which could indicate a faulty trigger unit. Difficult to pinpoint what it causing it but if mine I would check the rotar arm, cap look for cracking and carbon brush check the leads with a meter to see what the ohms are and pull the plugs and check as required. cant remember have you checked the coil/replaced? and any feeds to the coil for correct voltage and connection on the low/high tension side,

#12 lrostoke

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Posted 17 January 2013 - 06:59 AM

If you didn't alter the timing after fitting, I'd certainly be checking that.

Also make sure HT leads are on right, easy to get wrong

4 - 3 - 2 - 1 plugs

3 - 1
4 - 2 dizzy cap

#13 feargal kerr

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Posted 17 January 2013 - 09:53 AM

Thanks guys yeah i checked the coil its ok all the plugs are sparking but i'll check the voltage. Dont have a timing light but i'll try get one and check the timing on it.




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