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Engine Mounts


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#1 gazza01

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Posted 17 January 2013 - 06:09 PM

Hi all.

I am looking to renew the engine mounts with the engne still in the car. In the Haynes it says to remove the flywheel cover to get to one side and to remove the radiator to get to the other side. Is this the way to go or is there no need.

The car is a manual 1275 roundnose. Does anyone have good/better/quicker way to do the job?

Any hints and tips appreciated.

Cheers

Gazza

#2 Jordie

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Posted 17 January 2013 - 06:22 PM

Thats correct.

Ive done it. You need to support the engine with a jack, undo one side at a time i find works best. You may or may not have to remove steady bars depending on how much clearence you need.

Clutch side
- Undo engine mount bolts in subframe and remove them.
- remove slave cylinder from clutch housing and tie out of way
- jack engine slightly
- undo clutch cover (wok) and remove
- with wok outside of the car, you can replace the engine mount.

Radiator side
- Undo engine mount and remove bolts/nuts
- remove radiator by removing the top bracket, hose and the 1/2" head bolt that is in the bracket under the rad. lift rad out.
- jack engine slightly
- undo 2 1/2" head bolts that connect the bracket to the gearbox.
- remove bracket with a wiggle. once out replace the engine mount.

#3 lrostoke

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Posted 17 January 2013 - 07:11 PM

The wok side engine mounting bolts are a proper pain to get in.

This worked a treat for us last time, get a magnetic pick up tool http://www.ebay.co.u...=item1e75e72eaa

push it through the hole you want the bolt to go through (insert from under subframe ) then stick the bolt to it, and gently pull back out :)

#4 tiger99

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Posted 17 January 2013 - 07:19 PM

With the steadies disconnevted at one end, there is usually enough room, if you carefully jack the engine, to get the clutch side mount off without separating the wok from the casing. But you do need an assortment of 1/2" spanners, at least one will be a shortish open-ended, and will need to be a good fit as you will need to tap it with a hammer. And, you need lots of patience!

If you have both mounts undone, and the engine on a trolley jack, usually it will move an inch or so towards the other side to get some working space.

One of the wok bolts is extremely difficult, which is why I persevered with the mount bolts instead.

#5 Scousemouse

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Posted 21 July 2016 - 04:57 PM

I've got the AUTODATA book 1962-92 and right hand side(WOK) you don't have to remove the wok at all.

Support engine using a jack with a piece of wood to spread the load.

Remove the 2 bolts securing the mounting to the subframe,then raise the engine further to allow access to the 3 bolts securing the mounting to the clutch housing.

Fit the new mounting in the reverse order of removal.

                                                                                        

The so called Haynes(BIBLE) would have you taking everything off the car to empty the ashtray??



#6 tiger99

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Posted 23 July 2016 - 11:36 AM

No, you just strip out enough to be able to fit a spit, drain all fluids, put a container over the ashtray, add invert the car!

 

Or, like the rich oil sheikh, change the car every time the ashtray is full.



#7 Scousemouse

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Posted 27 July 2016 - 12:27 PM

:D  :D



#8 The Matt

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Posted 27 July 2016 - 02:53 PM

I've never removed the clutch cover to do the engine mounts. It's a fiddle but certainly doable.




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