10 replies to this topic

[toadstool]

Hi Everyone
Im in the process of rebuilding my front subframe using adjustable bottom arms, adjustable tie bars and hi-los with new cones. does anyone know of any approximate settings for all this adjustment before the subframe gets refitted? is there a way of measuring anything without the weight of the car on the subframe?

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[maccers]

I think its best to have all this set up after the whole weight of the car with engine etc installed. I just replaced all my suspension parts with adjustable bits, front and rear, and was advised to save some money and not have it set up until after a few thousand miles once all the bits settle down, especially the new rubber suspension.

[toadstool]

i will have it set up by a pro once the car is built, i was just wondering if there are any rough guides i could use while im putting it all together

cheers

[A-Cell]

However if the geometry is a long way out then the car will be a pig to drive, handling could be dangerous at worst, at best tyre wear is exaggerated.
Measure the length of the standard parts and set it up to these dimensions E.g. The front tie bars are 14.25 inches from centreline of the lower arm fixing bolt and the inner face of the fixed washer.
Others may know the dimensions for the lower arms if you don't have 'old' standard ones to hand.
Be very careful with the rear wheel alignment, it is imperative that it has toe-in (1/8inch), if it toes out then the car will exhibit dangerous oversteer.
Toadstool you are doing the right thing trying to get suspension settings close as possible as you assemble it. Then get it set up on a four wheel alignment.
There are threads on the forum with methods you can use.

[bmcecosse]

Set the lower arms to standard length +1/4" as a good starting point - and the tiebars to standard length. The extra length on the arms will automatically pull on some extra castor. Hope you are fitting longer track rod ends - very essential with longer lower arms.

[elpedro]

i set mine as close as possible to standerd lenths then took it to my local mini store and asked them to lazer align it they also put a raceing setup on there for an extra 40 quid well worth the the extra money

[A-Cell]

Sorry elpedro but they ripped you off. Does not matter what the geometry settings are, 'road' or 'race' the job only needs doing once on the geometry rig, so the cost should be the same! You either pay by the hour or a fixed rate. They took advantage of you.

[icklemini]

a 'racing setup' is a lot different to a (fast) 'road' setup... the former being totally unsuitable for most drivers!

not sure exactly why it would cost more... but then to get a 'racing' setup with some of the off the shelf adjustable gear you do sometimes need to make some modifications. ..

[elpedro]

reason it cost more was for the extra time it needed for modifacations for the racesetup

[james962]

Set the lower arms to standard length +1/4" as a good starting point - and the tiebars to standard length. The extra length on the arms will automatically pull on some extra castor. Hope you are fitting longer track rod ends - very essential with longer lower arms.

Apologies for hijacking the thread a little, but with longer lower arms, and standard track rod ends, I guess you will get excess toe out? This has happened to mine. Where can I get longer track rod ends from? I think I will need to get these prior to getting it all set up.

[tiger99]

The longer track rod ends are only to get sufficient thread engagement. With negative camber, once you adjust the toe, the standard end might only be engaged on its thread by 3 or 4 turns, which is unsafe.

The extended track rod ends are available, at a ripoff price, from most Mini suppliers. As they are in fact only Triumph Spitfire track rod ends, they are almost always cheaper from a classic Triumph specialist. Google will find them for you.