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Towing Time


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#1 binge

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Posted 08 April 2006 - 05:55 PM

Ok, well this is the only project ive taken on which has really lifted off its feet. Ive been limited with time at getting the work done.
I choped the bum off the mini about 2 weeks ago. Took me all day to do! :(

Started by removing the roof, Then removed the doors. Then began choping along the floor.
Choping the sills took a anglegrinder disk each side! :o

Anyway, Unfortionatly I didnt manage to get any photos of the early progress apart from a few pictures of the rear end already removed. So The project really starts there...

Now I origionally planned to use my current "Trailer" as a doner trailer. and basically drop the back end of the mini onto the frame of the trailer I had...

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I began dismanteling the trailer, and ended up with a nice, Lightweight frame which is more practical than a mini subframe!

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Luckily, the Wheelbolt pattern was the same for the trailer, and a mini, So a Quick wheel change got things into action!

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All looks good until I droped the shell onto the trailer, and my plans are ruined! >:-

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Im off back out there now to re-think my ideas....





Just a few questions really. Some of you lot may beable to help me.


Does a trailer need a Fog Light?
How long does the "Towing" arm have to be infront of the trailer?

What can I mount it to as the exhaust tunnel is REALLY Flimsey.



<|Ben|>

#2 minimadjonesy

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Posted 08 April 2006 - 06:02 PM

binge, just cut the the frame off the top so you have the towing arm and cross member left, then mount it onto the shell that way! the towing arm will sit in the exhaust tunnel and the wheels should sit nicer in the arches! if needs be then cut a channel through the shell and fit the cross member in it then weld it to the shell! :-

#3 Dom

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Posted 08 April 2006 - 06:05 PM

OMG you chopped up your mini you did all that work and respraying for into a trailer!!!

R.I.P. mini :(

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But good luck with the project trailer :-

#4 binge

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Posted 08 April 2006 - 06:31 PM

Yea, Was really sad to see it go. But unfortionatly it was going to cost over £2000 to get all the "Bodges" reversed. (Thanks to some dumb ar$e mechanics)


anyway, I started choping...

And choping.

And well, I ended up just using teh hubs from the trailer, and slight bit of imagination really. It still needs all welding up etc. and a bit of tweaking. But you get the idea.

I came up with the idea of bolting two lenghts of box rail to the boot floor to spread the load, and create a mounting for the hub.

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Here it is with the Hub Mounted.
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Before you all jump in and mention the strenght. Im still not finished.
Im going to be seam welding everything to everything. And also running a "brace" from the Top shockabsorber mount, to the hub. (havnt done that yet)... but were still VERY early days here...


another shot from the underside...
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I got a nice even fit in the wheel arch too! :-
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It wasnt until I steped back to take an overall view of the trailer that I noticed there was quite alot of Camber in the wheels! >:(
Bit silly of me not to check really, But these things happen.
So I think im either going to totally re-think my design. Or put a couple of snug fitting shims between the hub and the outside strip of boxrail to bring the camber back to parralel.

Although, with the steep negative camber, i guess the trailer would be good at cornering. :o

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Just a few more pictures...


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#5 Dom

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Posted 08 April 2006 - 06:34 PM

What are you doing with your lovely rare interior and your ice?

#6 jack_marshall

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Posted 08 April 2006 - 06:36 PM

Excellent. Looking good Ben.

Like to see it when its done.

#7 binge

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Posted 08 April 2006 - 06:37 PM

Well Ive got my eyes on a few bog standard 998 auto minis on ebay. The go for next to nothing.

If I can pick up a good nick 998 auto. ive got everything I need to make it into a 1275 manual :-


nice cheap way to a decent mini I guess.

#8 minimadjonesy

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Posted 08 April 2006 - 06:53 PM

nevermind about teh camber! it'll help the handling!

#9 Pooky

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Posted 08 April 2006 - 06:55 PM

do you still have the back end of the roof? because i think a hinged removable metal top with a gas strut would look best, bit more work of course :-

And i reckon you should keep the bulk head for rigidity reasons plus it separates the trailer into two compartments! :(

#10 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 08 April 2006 - 07:27 PM

How have you reinforced the floor to take the suspension load ?

#11 binge

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Posted 08 April 2006 - 09:43 PM

Nah, Havnt re-enforced the floor. But I thaught it would be enough support. With there being a Beam running from the top mount to the hub too?

or would it need "Plating" on the inside of the boot too?


As for the roof. Unfortionatly the roof is much small than the top of the trailer. Would take ALOT of work to make it bigger to fit. but it is do-able.

<|Ben|>

#12 Jammy

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Posted 08 April 2006 - 09:43 PM

LOL! I thought it was going really well til you showed the picture of the camber! I thought the same as MMJ, it would probably keep the trailor stable to have a bit of -ve camber, although not sure how quickly it would go through tyres?!

Why buy a 1275 auto and convert it? Why not just why a 1275 manual?

#13 TJenkos

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Posted 08 April 2006 - 10:19 PM

LOL! I thought it was going really well til you showed the picture of the camber! I thought the same as MMJ, it would probably keep the trailor stable to have a bit of -ve camber, although not sure how quickly it would go through tyres?!

Why buy a 1275 auto and convert it? Why not just why a 1275 manual?


Read the posts!! :(

If I can pick up a good nick 998 auto. ive got everything I need to make it into a 1275 manual



998 auto > 1275 manual :-

#14 Jammy

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Posted 08 April 2006 - 10:48 PM

Yea, I read that thanks. What I'm sayin is that when you do that you then ruin one cars originality (admittedly it must have some when you buy it!). But then your also modifying that vehicle, which means more insurance no matter which way you look at it! You may as well sell the 1275 on Ebay or something (after painting it to get top dollar!) and put that money into getting a 1275 manual mini.

#15 binge

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Posted 09 April 2006 - 01:07 PM

As for buying a 998 auto and converting to a 1275 manual.
Why not?

it will be 1/2 the price to buy a 998 auto because not many people like them. :-

and as for Insurance purposes. Umm, my previous mini was origionally a 998 auto about 20 years ago. In its time it was changed to a 998 manual. Then to a 1275 manual.
Insurance still believed it was a 998.

Dodgey I know.


Anyway, Im not in the mood for working on the trailer. But today My dad bought me a Mig Welder out of the paper. Not sure how good it is etc. He only gave £20 for it. We didnt see it working or anything. So I guess its worth a shot.




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