18 replies to this topic

[maccers]

I have a new 1989 loom in my mini, new standard glass fuse box. Its working perfect as you'd expect with new bits. I am now running out of live and switched live feeds though and dont want to start using piggy backs all over the place.

Is it worth running in a new power lead direct from the battery, or the starter and install a 2nd fuse box for relay controlled devices? Such devices would be, kenlowe cooling fan, coil pack, two injectors, Emerald ECU (I hear this likes direct battery power) and smaller devices that need constant live, clock, cb radio, stereo, map reading light.

Any suggestions?

[Bungle]

yes, the standard loom isn't up to taking any extra load

[maccers]

Whats the best way to connect up, run one hefty wire from starter and locally daisy chan the 4 fuse connections or run some form of 2 or 4 core wire, or seperate wires to each blade?

[Bungle]

run one hefty wire from starter and locally daisy chain the 4 fuse connections

remembering the cable isn't fused from the starter to the fuse box

[maccers]

Would I then be restricted by the fuse and input wires on the original fusebix / loom - surely thats the same as loading up the fused side on the original fuse box?

[freshairmini]

Would I then be restricted by the fuse and input wires on the original fusebix / loom - surely thats the same as loading up the fused side on the original fuse box?

No because the White and Brown Wires are unfused, live/switched power going IN (on the lH side) to the fuse box.



I assume they are the main feeds of power being distributed from the fuse box?

Edited by freshairmini, 28 January 2013 - 12:11 PM.

[maccers]

Thanks for that, yep I understand the left is un-fused, but would the wiring from that side, to where ever the source is be able to support more load? Last thing I want to do is over heat main feed wires.

[dklawson]

I am sure Tiger will post soon regarding current ratings and fuses but until he does, please use the search feature here regarding fuses and fuse ratings. During the past two weeks we had a thread running that may have some useful information for you.

If I may make a suggestion, Google for "marine fuse block" and look over the products that you find. Many are available that have a central buss. Having the central buss will allow you to make a single feed to the fuse block from a location like the starter solenoid. The individual fused circuits feed off the buss so you have only single wire connections "out" of the fuse block to your accessory (you will not have daisy-chain jumpers from fuse to fuse to fuse). This can be both "cleaner" and more reliable.

As above, the brown wires are permanent live and un-fused, the white wires are switch live and un-fused. If you tap into the existing circuits (white or brown), keep in mind that ALL the current flowing through your new fuse block will be coming through existing wiring that will NOT have been sized for the additional load. Therefore, you may want to consider buying a heavy duty relay (OR a small stand-alone starter solenoid as a relay) to supply current to your new fuse block only when the ignition is on. (Current from the starter solenoid connection, to the power relay, power relay triggered by a white wire on the ignition switch, current out from the relay to your new fuse block).

[maccers]

Yep, Bus fusebox sounds like what I am after. Does the new feed from the solenoid to the new fuse box need fusing itself also? Or will I just need to be very careful when choosing the wire for the feed and keep a note of what I am running off the new fusebox.

I'll keep the fuse box under the bonnet more than likely.

Edited by maccers, 28 January 2013 - 02:00 PM.

[Bungle]

If you want you extra fusebox to be permanently live, take it's feed from the brown wire at the fuse box.
If you'd like it to be controlled by the ignition key (switched) connect it to the white wire at the fusebox.

would this brown wire be up to the extra load ?

[Bungle]

. Does the new feed from the solenoid to the new fuse box need fusing itself also?

i fused mine for safety, but if you plan the route carefully you could get away with out

[Bungle]

Such devices would be, kenlowe cooling fan, coil pack, two injectors, Emerald ECU (I hear this likes direct battery power) and smaller devices that need constant live, clock, cb radio, stereo, map reading light.

Obviously it depends what load your gonna put on it, but then again if your running a freezer off it probably not.
I run 3 fuse boxes inside mine, admittedly not on the brown as I don't want anything permanently live on the extra fuses..........

Edited by Bungle, 28 January 2013 - 08:36 PM.

[lrostoke]

How about 2 of these 1 for ignition switched, 1 for perminant live

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2c661216cd

[dklawson]

Way cool Steve! I love the LED indicators for blown fuses! I have a friend working on an Austin/Morris Marina project that needs a fuse block just like that!

[maccers]

Nice, like it! I was struggling to find 1 input x 4, 6 , 8 etc out, they all seemed to be 4 *4 or 6 * 6 etc.

30amp max per output is more than I'll need.

Last question, what sort of cable will I need for the input then? The most I have seen is 27amp in Halfords. Do they go higher?

Edited by maccers, 29 January 2013 - 11:06 AM.