15 replies to this topic

[Mattk668]

Hi guys, i'm just starting a 1976 clubman estate full restoration but before i start stripping the car down and rebuilding i would like to see if i could get the engine running, its 1100cc thats all i know about it so far. the dizzy cap and coil are missing.
so far i've taken the spark plugs out, and sprayed WD-40 down each to free up the inside, i've ordered a coil, Ht leads, Dizzy cap, plugs.

So can anyone give me some advice how to start this, should i connect coil, plugs, ht leads and just see if it will turn over, or will this do damage to the engine if it has seized??

Any Advice is welcome,
Cheers, Matt

[mini_in_progress]

Id try turning it over by hand first. If its free then id drain the old fuel out replace with new then maybe spay a bit of easy start into the intake or carb and try starting it

[mini_in_progress]

But only if you dont want to strip it down for a check and rebuild first...

Edited by mini_in_progress, 07 February 2013 - 01:47 PM.

[Big_Adam]

Also check its got oil in it first, spin it up without the plugs to build said oil pressure first.

[thebullet]

And if it turns over but dosen't start, don't just keep turning it over it could cause the starter motor to burn out and if it keeps turning really slowly it might jam it. If it wont fire, check there it fuel getting to the engine, check the float chamber and make sure that that hasn't seized so no fuel is being brought to the engine. This happened to me after my mini was stood for 10 years.

[Mattk668]

Ok thanks guys, the Ht leads should be here tomorrow so I'll try it and let you know what happens

[jaydee]

Check the engine turns by hand and its not seized.
Change the oil first, and 'back' prime the oil pump, now remove spark plugs and run engine on the starter to see if you got oil pressure.
Remember to replace all fluids if its been stood for such a long time.

[wile e coyote]

New plugs , dizzy cap, rotor arm and HT leads a good start...After checking the engine's free to turn - plugs out - lots of oil down the bores (if stuck warm up some diesel and pour in - if you have to do this do not go further until oil changed) once free (don't force it - if it doesn't budge repeat, and again etc - sooner or later there'll be a little movement.....little movements with "lube" (engine oil or diesel - wouldn't use WD40 as a) you'll need one hell of a lot and b) it's so thin what doesn't pool in the piston dish will leak straight through the rings) the the bores to and fro to start, building up to full rotation on the crank pulley.

I would at minimum change the oil (cheapo nasty will do), prime the oil pump, fill up the coolant - (water), clean the carb out thoroughly , new points & condenser wouldnt hurt either - think the right coil will is GCL216 or alternative - important to make sure you've the right one.

Ideally renew the engine bay fuel line too - as at minimum the 2 seactions you'll need will have visible cracking and be much hardened - I wouldn't for the sake of a couple of quid from pretty much any motor factor trust fuel line that old - especially as you can guarantee a leak will be right on top of the manifold....

That lot and a fresh battery (with a booster pack on standby) stand a realistic chance of provoking some life

Enjoy...

[Badboytunes]

I wouldnt use wd40 either.....

[Fast Ivan]

if you dont give a toss then just do all you can to get sparks and fuel. if you do give a toss then drop the oil, any water present dont start it. change the oil filter. take the head off and inspect the bores, if theres corrosion then forget it, wd40 aint saving your bores/pistons/crank. check the condition of the springs and valves, broken valve or the potential broken valve will kill it. oil pump will as a minimum need priming, preferably replacing. do all this then turn it by hand for a couple of turns. install a pressure gauge and crank a couple of times without spark and make sure oil pressure builds. if all this checks out i would give it a 5 minute guarantee :)
but if you want to rebuild it and keep costs down then dont even bother trying to start it, take the engine out and start the rebuild - you will have a lot more parts that are usable.

[Sakib37]

Hii I too have bought a c reg mini that's been stood for a few years how should I start it first thanks

[Badboytunes]

Hii I too have bought a c reg mini that's been stood for a few years how should I start it first thanks

As above

[dklawson]

The only thing I take issue with above is removing the head to inspect the bores. There is nothing wrong with pulling the head and inspecting the engine but I would save head removal for later... once you know if the engine will start or not. Removing and refitting the head can introduce a whole bunch of variables (that were not there before) that may make the engine hard to start.

[tiger99]

Yes, I would try to get it turning over without taking the head off, but oil the bores as others have suggested. Redex might be the best thing to use for that, but diesel or a good penetrating oil will be usable. Spin it with plugs out to eject all the oil (careful!) before tyring to start it. It will either turn over, or not, or possibly break its piston rings, so you will either have to do nothing, or a complete strip and rebuild. Light rusting in the cylinder bores is actually beneficial as it retains oil, heavy rusting is bad. Some engine builders specifically leave their freshly machined and fully degreased blocks outside for a day or so, to allow a very thin film of rust to develop.

Before driving a car that had been laid up for so long, I would change all, and I mean ALL, the brake hydraulics as it is 99% certain that all the seals and hoses will be in a very bad state, the fluid will have absorbed a lot of water, and the cylinder bores will be rusted. Total brake failure a few days after putting a car back into action is quite common.

[motomate]

clean out the carb, remove the plugs , drip a little oil down the cylinders.
turn it over by hand, check for a spark fresh fuel and off you go