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Clutch Release Bearing ?


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#1 vipernewz

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 08:20 AM

Car: 1989 Mini Thirty

Was driving to work this morning and while sitting in traffic i noticed when there was a whiring/scraping sort of noise when I had my clutch pedal compressed.

If i take it out of gear and release the clutch pedal the noise stops, my initial thought is that the clutch release bearing has worn? Is there anything else it could be?

Secondly if it is the clutch release bearing, am i right in thinking I have a Verto Clutch?

Cheers in advance,
Tom

#2 tiger99

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 08:48 AM

On a 1989 you should definitely have a Verto clutch unless it has been mucked about by a previous owner. Some seem to prefer the pre-Verto, but in my opinion there would be no point in changing, as you have to change a lot of parts. In any case I will let you into the secret of how you can tell at a glance. Just find the slave cylinder (follow the pipe and hose from the master cylinder if in doubt). If it is sitting on top of the clutch housing, horizontally, and is actuating a fairly long lever, it is a pre-Verto, while a Verto has it angled down, mounted on a steel bracket, and driving a short, bent lever. See the diagrams on the Somerford web site below.

http://www.somerford...age=page&id=145
http://www.somerford...age=page&id=143
http://www.somerford...age=page&id=144

And yes, your noise is almost certainly the release bearing.

Edited by tiger99, 13 February 2013 - 08:49 AM.


#3 vipernewz

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 12:42 PM

Thanks tiger! will have a look later on as at work at the moment...

My next question is how hard is it to change the bearing yourself? (i would class myself as a novice) or is it a job you take to your local garage?

#4 tiger99

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 01:31 PM

You will need 1/2" socket and ratchet, 1/2" open ended and ring spanners (for the couple of awkward bolts), a pair of spanners tyo fit the overtravel stop and its locknut, can't remember the size but quite big, pliers for the split pin and probably a few more common tools. as well as a jack. You need to jack up that end of the engine, possibly need to undo top steady, unbolt the mount from the subframe, unbolt slave cylinder from its bracket (don't disconnect hydraulics or press pedal!), then unbolt the "wok" from the main casing. You then have access to the thrust bearing, which just levers off the plunger with a screwdriver.

I think it is a suitable job for a relative beginner. I did one (per-Verto) when I was very inexperienced, and it was not difficult, just awkward. Long, thin hands would probably help, and lots of patience, to get the 8 wok bolts out. It is customary to leave the most awkward one out, but I perfer to always put them all back.

#5 midridge2

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 02:01 PM

Never new that was a secret.

#6 Cooperman

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 04:21 PM

All that 'tiger' says plus, be careful when undoing the overthrow stop & overthrow lock-nut as it's easy to snap off the clutch arm ball end (done that!).
The overthrow nuts are either 15/16" or 1" AF and one of the spanners needs to be fairly thin.

#7 tiger99

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 05:07 PM

midridge2, just my way of phrasing it, it is a "secret" to those who don't yet know. The question crops up here regularly, perhaps too regularly, so obviously the knowledge has not spread as widely as it ought to.

#8 vipernewz

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 06:33 PM

Cheers for all your help guys will have a look at it this weekend hopefully :D

#9 Spitz

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 10:00 PM

Also.....
I found everything was made much easier by taking the brake servo out of the way.
No need to undo any lines....just the bolt connections on the bulkhead ( and pedal pin ) and lift/move the whole unit ( with lines attached ) onto the fender which is covered by a towel or similar so it doesn't scratch. The brake line have enough bends and flex in the to allow this.
Makes access much much easier

#10 Cooperman

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 10:40 PM

Also.....
I found everything was made much easier by taking the brake servo out of the way.
No need to undo any lines....just the bolt connections on the bulkhead ( and pedal pin ) and lift/move the whole unit ( with lines attached ) onto the fender which is covered by a towel or similar so it doesn't scratch. The brake line have enough bends and flex in the to allow this.
Makes access much much easier


Note for English people - the 'Fender' is the 'Wing' :D

#11 tiger99

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 11:33 PM

Yes, if you have a servo it does need to be moved. I should have realised that you would have a servo, and said so. One of those modern innovations that I have so far managed to do without, however I can see why with discs, and possibly hard pads, you would want one. Anyway, Rover saw fit to put it there on later models, so I don't suggest that it should be removed. The job is not technically difficult as such, but awkward enough without a servo in the way.

As for a MPI, well I will never be getting one of those, despite the indisputable advantages of a modern fuel injection system, because with all that extra clutter in the way, routine things like clutch maintenance become nightmarishly difficult, or just plain slow, if you have to strip stuff out..

#12 Spitz

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 05:30 AM

lol...When I was younger and moved over here to CA, I did call them "wings"....I got funny looks. I was soon assimilated




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