13 replies to this topic

[joyce1bro]

Ok so I get a quote for $1400 NZD to install and setup my 276 cam on an A+ engine. I think that's crazy but the guy said "nope, it's an engine in and out, big job!!"

My question is, is it really 1400NZD BIG? I have worked on a lot of evo's before, engines in and out, g box in and out, clutches, transfer box's, rear diffs, replacing cams, manifolds, turbos, you get the drift even when I paid someone to take my gear box out it cost 400 bucks and taking out a gearbox is 5% away from taking out the engine. Those of u who have worked on AWDs know its a PITA!! I would have thought the mini wouldn't be such a mission compared to say an evo?

[blackbelt1990]

I can't remember the quickest way because I changed mine when the engine was in bits!

It's engine out yeah, I'd say head off or at least pushrods out, timing gear off which will need resetting, that should be all?

Think of the labour going into stripping ancillaries off to remove an engine and then put it all back.

Do it yourself! Get someone else to do the tune ;)

[mini-luke]

It is an engine out and gearbox split from engine job to do correctly, 1400NZD is about £750 by the way

[Artful Dodger]

Easier than an Evo!! Can get engine out in 30 mins!

You do have to pull most of the top engine apart, an build back up again.. And if it doesn't have follower covers on the back you have to slip from the gearbox to get the followers out and install newuns.

That's where the cost is.

[Fast Ivan]

yeah its engine out, head off and gearbox split from the block as they will need to get to the cam followers (gotta replace these). its not a five minute job by any means.

[jaydee]

Only engines with tappet chest covers can be done in situ (ie 998 1098 S blocks)

[AVV IT]

Last time I put my mini on Peter Baldwins rolling road (and he told me that my cam was probably knackered!!) he told me that he used to change cams at the trackside with the engine still in the car!! He reckoned he did it by removing the rad, taking the nearside front wheel off, cutting/pulling a couple of the slats in inner wing out of the way and then rolling the car on it's side onto a mattress, and doing it all under the wheel arch through the inner wing!!

Strangely I didn't ask him to demonstrate the concept on my car!!

[jaydee]

Last time I put my mini on Peter Baldwins rolling road (and he told me that my cam was probably knackered!!) he told me that he used to change cams at the trackside with the engine still in the car!! He reckoned he did it by removing the rad, taking the nearside front wheel off, cutting/pulling a couple of the slats in inner wing out of the way and then rolling the car on it's side onto a mattress, and doing it all under the wheel arch through the inner wing!!

Strangely I didn't ask him to demonstrate the concept on my car!!

Thats how you do it on a engine with tappet chest covers

[KernowCooper]

Imperative to fit new cam followers and on the A+ the only way to get access is the Engine off the Gearbox and from below

[Cooperman]

I think Pete B is using an 'S' block which, like trhe 850, 997 & 998 has can chest covers. An A+ is really an engine out job as the cam followers need to be changed as well.
So it's: remove engine and gearbox, remove clutch & flywheel, remove head and push rods, remove engine from block, remove front pully & timing cover, timing gears & timing chain (good time to change the chain as well), remove engine front plate. With engine turned to rest on the block face pull out camshaft, remove cam followers.
Then do all this in reverse.
AS for man hours, allow 3 to 4 hours for getting the engine out, 4 to 5 hours for the strip and re-assembly with the new cam, and 5 to 6 hours to re-install the engine. Thus a minimum of 12 hours and up to 15 hours for the entire job.
Wise to change the oil pump whilst doing this job and to check for clutch wear. Perhaps a new 'red' primary gear seal as well.

[tiger99]

If I was doing ONLY a cam change (which would only be for a performance upgrade, if it was worn the entire engine would need to be looked at too) on an engine with tappet chest covers I would not even think about doing all that. Radiator out, jack up left end of engine and remove all relevant bits such as mount, pulley, timing cover, front plate. Cut 2 slats in inner wing, many older cars will have had that done already. Rocker assembly off, and pushrods out, head remains in place. Tappet chest covers off, tappets out (careful NOT to drop any, safer with some kind of magnetic tool), distributor and drive gear out (use long 5/16" UNF bolt to pull the gear out or it WILL drop), cam out, new cam in, new tappets in, and reassemble everything in reverse order. No need to drain oil. I think I have missed a couple of minor bits, you will likely need the exhaust manifold off too, and it is folly to not do the timing chain and oil seal.

It may take very nearly as long as taking the engine out, because it is fiddly. And, if you drop one tappet, you WILL be taking the engine out.

[joyce1bro]

Thanks for all the info guys. Didn't realise it will take that long to do cooperman! Ill probably do it myself and get someone to tune it. Is 750 pounds about what people would charge in the UK? Engine has been rebuilt not that long ago but correct me if I'm wrong, must haves are... Cam followers, oil seal, timing chain (looking at duplex adjustable kit) and basically whole set of gaskets etc... Anything I've missed, would valve springs be a must with Kent 276? Head is ported and polished from Ian Nuttal not to many details on it.

[Sleepy Stu]

15 hours work would cost you a lot more that £750 in the uk. Average garage is about £50 per hour at least and thats on the cheap side!

[Fast Ivan]

definitly worth going with the duplex.
I would check the crank end float as well, if its a recently recently rebuilt engine then it should be within tolerance, if it isnt then something is amiss.
check the cam liners as well for wear.