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Desperate For Help


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#1 jmmini

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 02:36 PM

Right I've fitted a powerspark kit and cook, replacing my ballast system via a feed from the white wire that I soldered in, I've fit it as it said, feed to + ans red from ignition then black to - 've

It runs like #@#? It doesn't pull, it missfires backfires and goes 15 mph top speed it's really bad!

Do I need to alter timing? And how on earth do I do this?

HELP MEH!!

#2 jmmini

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 02:57 PM

Please someone

#3 andrew1986mini

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 02:58 PM

id love to try help but not really sure what you have fitted.
my only option is ht lead on right plugs ??

#4 Shifty

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 03:00 PM

You'll need to adjust the timing, changing to the electronics will have messed it up.

Are you also sure you haven't mixed up the plug leads as well(or accidentally knocked one off)

#5 carbon

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 03:02 PM

Is the coil you have fitted for a ballast or non-ballast system, and are you still using the ballast resistor?

Also how hot is the coil getting when misfire happens?

#6 jmmini

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 03:28 PM

The coil isn't that hot, I've taken a new feed from the white wire (could I have just fitted a connector to the fuse box? ) so no ballast resistor. How could the timing be set? Do I need a garrage to do it? I dont have a strobe.

#7 jmmini

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 03:29 PM

id love to try help but not really sure what you have fitted.
my only option is ht lead on right plugs ??


It's a powerspark electronic ignition module and non ballast coil

#8 KernowCooper

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 03:29 PM

Right you have said you've put a new feed wire in which is 12v and looks like a new coil which is non ballasted, so lets start again.

New coil should have the new 12v feed wire you have fitted on the + terminal and the wire from the trigger head you've fitted marked + connects to the same coil terminal, and the other wire from the trigger head connects to the - terminal of the coil. So assuming your leads are in the correct place (did you remove cap/coil?) If thats all correct then you now need to check the timing. The only way really to do that is with a timing light, which you would run the engine at idle speed and check how far before TDC your timing is currently set, I suspect the trigger head is in a slightly different position on the bass plate causing the timing problem.

While I was writing this you've stated you don't have a timing light, so maybe someone near you has one here or its a garage job to get it spot on.

Edited by KernowCooper, 16 February 2013 - 03:30 PM.


#9 carbon

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 03:30 PM

So just to confirm, is the coil a non-ballast unit suitable for 12V direct feed?

#10 jmmini

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 03:32 PM

Right you have said you've put a new feed wire in which is 12v and looks like a new coil which is non ballasted, so lets start again.

New coil should have the new 12v feed wire you have fitted on the + terminal and the wire from the trigger head you've fitted marked + connects to the same coil terminal, and the other wire from the trigger head connects to the - terminal of the coil. So assuming your leads are in the correct place (did you remove cap/coil?) If thats all correct then you now need to check the timing. The only way really to do that is with a timing light, which you would run the engine at idle speed and check how far before TDC your timing is currently set, I suspect the trigger head is in a slightly different position on the bass plate causing the timing problem.


I did remove the cap bit I numbered the ht leads and put them back in the same order. I screwed the baseplate in where the other were, and the rotar arm. I'll try sort a strove light out

#11 jmmini

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 03:33 PM

How do you alter the timing, so you move the whole dizzy? I'll give my friend a ring who has one and see what he thinks.

#12 jmmini

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 03:38 PM

So just to confirm, is the coil a non-ballast unit suitable for 12V direct feed?

yes

Edited by jmmini, 16 February 2013 - 03:38 PM.


#13 KernowCooper

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 03:38 PM

Yes mate you undo the clamp on the distributor body and twist the whole unit anti or clock wise to get the right timing, remember to take the vacuum advance pipe off when you do it and put a small piece of pipe over the carb spill you took it off from to stop it drawing air. what mini engine do you have ? do you know what the timing is for yours?

#14 jmmini

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 03:40 PM

The engine number states it's a 998 that someone has painted red but I have no idea about timing

#15 KernowCooper

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 03:47 PM

Try 5 BTDC at 1000rpm with vac pipe off and tighten the distributor clamp ( no need to wring this up as it will just distort the bracket and bolt, tight to stop any movement is sufficient) , I believe thats the setting for a std mini 1000,

Once the engine is running correctly and up to temp, the optimum timing is reached by bringing the engine speed up to between 3000 and 4000 RPM and setting the MAXIMUM DYNAMIC advance to about 32 BTDC. Then return the car to idle and test drive it. If you hear any pinking under load, turn the timing "back" (retard) in 2 degree steps until driving under load produces no pinking.

Obviously refit vac pipe to carb when finalised timing and on road tests

Edited by KernowCooper, 16 February 2013 - 03:55 PM.





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