15 replies to this topic

[PurpleXrA1NX]

basically, im removing the engine in the mini this week and the brake servo is the way.

i was told it needs to be removed but its looks a pain to remove and not only that looks a pain to fit back.

what do i need to look out for when removing it, there are many brake lines etc.. not sure which ones need to come out and which dont.

thanks

[KernowCooper]

The front and rear brake pipes from the master cylinder and the servo pipe is disconnected from the inlet manifold, the servo bracket to the bulkhead 2 nuts needs unbolting and the one bolt towards the upper wiiper panel as well, slip the clevis pin out the linkage and it will come away in one unit.

Tip lift the filler on the master cylinder plastic tank and put a plastic bag over the threaded neck and replace to create a vacuum so the fluid does not poor out the brake pipe holes, if your type of tank has the float built in the top to warn of low brake fluid remove the top and just put a plastic bag over the top threaded section and secue it with a rubber band.

Edited by KernowCooper, 16 February 2013 - 11:01 PM.

[PurpleXrA1NX]

thanks mate i will be following this.

[Ethel]

You can get flexible hoses to replace the pipes, makes things easier if you have to do the job again. Make up some bungs from old brake unions by nipping over a short length of pipe in them, if you hold the pedal down a few inches it will isolate the reservoir (then release the pressure at a bleed nipple) and you'll be able to swap the connections for your bungs to minimize any loss. Though taking the opportunity to drain & refresh the fluid might not be a bad idea. "Recycle" a plain filler cap next time you're in a scrappers, plenty of Brit made vehicles use Lockheed.

[PurpleXrA1NX]

heres what I'm dealing with

going well so far

maybe toooo well ops what shall i do now lol?

[PurpleXrA1NX]

hope this isnt serious

Edited by PurpleXrA1NX, 19 February 2013 - 01:18 PM.

[PurpleXrA1NX]

New pedal box?

[KernowCooper]

Have to drill it out and replace the 5/16 bolt by the looks of it

[Ethel]

It's a stud welded to the pedal box, shouldn't be difficult with the pedal box removed, might be worth looking at all 4 while you're at it.

[Spitz]

May as well try the clutch ones while in there. For future ref. you don't need to remove the brake lines if doing a clutch or removing the engine. Those hard lines have flex enough to lay the servo up on the fender/wing

[KernowCooper]

Those hard lines have flex enough to lay the servo up on the fender/wing

Unless they are replacements and not made of kunifer ( and I would not do it with kunifer) and are the original steel pipes its not a good idea to flex the steel pipes when its a 2 minuet job to undo the unions, and I don't know who would would want the servo/master cyl and bracket on the wing?

Not a good idea to flex metal pipes in my opinion as you may induce stress fracture which you may net be aware of!.

Edited by KernowCooper, 19 February 2013 - 11:15 PM.

[scott_65_cooper_s]

As well as possibly closing off the flow

[Spitz]

of course, someone who cared about their car would first put a towel on the wing..lol

[PurpleXrA1NX]

not the best at welding to be honest. and welding a stud looks difficult to get right
shall i just buy a new pedal box and chuck that in? are they cheap?

[scott_65_cooper_s]

Take the box out, then off the car drill the stud(s) out. You can then put a bolt thru, tac-welded in place... Robert's your mothers brother, new stud. Simples.