11 replies to this topic

[minisilverbullet]

I will be fitting a set of adjustable camber /toe brackets.

I am feeling a little uneasy about sheering the captive nuts.

I have cleaned wire brushed and started to spray a good penetrating fluid onto the bolts from the outside.

However, can I access the nuts somehow to spray some fluid on them also (belt and braces approach). Though I am wee bit uncertain of the anatomy of the sills /heal board.

Can i get to them through the companion bins?

I have a small hole drilled into the sill near the heal board ( guess to apply cavity wax), can i get to them through here?

I am using "Wurth rust off plus", the best penetrating fluid i could lay my hands on.

[JackF]

Wurth products are meant to be good!

[minisilverbullet]

Wurth products are meant to be good!

yeah if their price is anything to go by they should be excellent.

[minisilverbullet]

Topic title should read Heelboard......

[Minidarren83]

That small hole in the sill will be your best bet get a torch in there see if you can see the nuts and guide the straw in but if they are coated on wax the fluid may struggle to penetrate

[olds_kool_lews]

Remove the rear cards, then Look down into the rear pocket, down the inside edge of the rear quarter, up against the start of the rear arch where the healboard is, theres a long thin panel that sits between the inner sill and the rear quarter panel, theres a small gap between them, normally has a strip of foam in the gap, take it out and that will give u limited access to the back of the heal board/captive nuts, you can use a can of WD40 with straw and squirt it down the gap onto the nuts

[M30]

Your getting your nuts and bolts mixed up. The captive nuts on the heelboard hold take the bolts from the subby mounting trunion, the caber bracket bolts to the subby itself. You might just be able to get into the back of the subby from underneath up between it and the heelboard to squirt something in.

Stu

[wile e coyote]

Time is your friend with the truniion mounting bolts ... you've done everything you can at this stage but keep dosing the area with as much penetrating fluid as you can for as long as you can - on an "unknown" car - i.e one I haven't previous had the subby out of I normally try & soak for a week first. Key to getting these bolts out os firm gentle (as if thats not a contradiction in terms) pressure, rely on your sense of feel - don't jerk the spanner / rachet and make sure it's square on - when the bolts start to move spray again, retighten, loosen a bit more, repeat etc until you're sure all is good and normally they come out without issue. If they won't budge heat is then your friend.....

Theres nothing more sickening than shearing the bolt or feeling a rotted out heelboard with rust rotating nicely......

You'll be fine honest........(disclaimer : until the sodding bolt goes snap)

[minisilverbullet]

Your getting your nuts and bolts mixed up. The captive nuts on the heelboard hold take the bolts from the subby mounting trunion, the caber bracket bolts to the subby itself. You might just be able to get into the back of the subby from underneath up between it and the heelboard to squirt something in.

Stu

Really? Can any one confirm this?

[Minidarren83]

This is correct the camber bracket is only bolted to the subby by three or for bolts and the radius arm pin bolt but can't remember if you would get it off with subby in place

[scott_65_cooper_s]

Yeah should cone off as described subby in situe. Back in the day we just used to take the std ones off, file the hole out and refit. So should work the same replacing new for old.

[minisilverbullet]

Your getting your nuts and bolts mixed up. The captive nuts on the heelboard hold take the bolts from the subby mounting trunion, the caber bracket bolts to the subby itself. You might just be able to get into the back of the subby from underneath up between it and the heelboard to squirt something in.

Stu

Yeah I was wrong, I though they bolted through the heel board!