7 replies to this topic

[DripStand]

Hi Guys

Wondered if I could get some advise on repairing some rust holes that I have found on my 1991 Neon.

I have access to a mig welder, grinder and tools and some 0.9 and 1.2mm steel sheet and wondering the best way of tackling some holes I have discovered as guess this will get worse and fail the next mot.

Ideally I would like to tackle these myself but am not hugely experienced with mig welding although I have had success in the past welding.

I have a hole in the right hand side of the boot which is near some supports (see pic) and also in both bin pockets in the rear just above the radius arms (strangely the rest of the pockets are pretty clean.

Im wondering if firstly this is a easy job? I know I will prob need to remove alot more to get all the rust out. Can it be done easily from the inside (bin pocket side) or does the rear subframe need removing. And any tips on how to do these jobs.

Is it worth plating over or try and butt in a new piece then seam seal etc.

If went to get this done in a bodyshop  photo1.JPG   47.1K   28 downloads  photo1.JPG   47.1K   28 downloads what sort of time/money would you expect to pay.

Thankyou in advance

Attached Files

•  photo2.JPG   47.1K   24 downloads
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[DripStand]

Ment to say the other rust areas around the boot seem to be just surface rust so im hoping just to clean those up and protect.

[sonikk4]

The holes in the companion bins are on the rear arch close out panel. To replace this panel is awkward but doable however in this case i would clean up the hole so its rust free then you can seam weld a plate over the hole.

In the boot that rust is more critical as it is around the the subframe reinforcing bracket. A very common area for rust and normally works its way into the corner of the boot.
Due to this being a double skin area (the rear valance closeout panel has a section that runs under this area to strengthen this area) you will need to cut out this section carefully then seam weld a new section in place. Use the 0.9mm steel for both of the affected areas.

If you need to cut out both sections then you will need to add two pieces. Plug weld them together then seam weld in place.

Both of these areas are MOT critical so needs to be done well.

[DripStand]

Thank you for your reply.

What sort of money would you think is reasonable for a professional to do the boot job or both the jobs .

[sonikk4]

If its just a patch job a couple of hours . If you want a full on cut out and repair job then and done properly considerably more.

The only problem is that where you see some rust there is generally more hiding.

The arch closeout is a fiddly job to replace and that means time consuming. Hence why i said a patch job for the time being. The same applies to the boot floor area as to do this properly will require some time. Also as i have already mentioned there is the issue of the reinforcing plate underneath that section of floor.

If you can weld then you could easily do all of this in a day.

[DripStand]

Thankyou for your advise

[MiniAida]

Hi Dripstand,

I've just replaced these sections on mine.

This boot repair panel is a sort of weld over one, but I'd recommend cutting out all of the rust from the area first;

http://www.minispare...px|Back to shop

The cheaper (Magnum) panels are fine IMO because once any panel gets a bit of heat in it, it starts to distort, so have a fine point hammer ready to encourage the panel along. I make a lot of simple panels myself, but this kind of panel is a bargain for around a tenner posted and makes a strong, neat repair.

I welded over the original boot floor panel from on top and then from underneath, around the hole I'd made cutting the rust out.

If you want I can pm you some pics of the job.

For the bins, do as sonikk says, a decent patch should easily pass an MOT.

Both areas are within 80mm of a mounting point, so will have to be repaired and strong.

If you're doing it yourself, remember - weld onto clean, shiny metal for a strong MIG joint and always do a test weld (on a piece of scrap or even a bit that you've just cut out) - remember an overlap weld will require a different current to a butt weld. Check the other side of the test panel to see that the weld has gone through it. Lots of good tutorials on line.

Good luck!

MA

[MiniAida]

Sorry - forgot to say, this is possible without removing subframe (take out the bolts & overlap mounting points for a really strong patch)but you're playing with fire if you keep the petrol tank in - not a risk I'd take!

You'll probably find the same problem under the petrol tank anyway.

I bit the bullet & dropped the subframe out, gave it all a clean & paint as it will need doing at some point anyway.