7 replies to this topic

[hobnob888]

Looking through the Haynes manual, as I'm currently doing my engine mounts I want to check my clutch whilst the flywheel housing is off. However the book says you also need to remove the flywheel, but that doesn't really make sense, is this needed?

[KernowCooper]

Yes the clutch plate is behind the flywheel its reverse from a inline arrangement so you will need a flywheel puller to remove the flywheel and clutch assembly. the Haynes should give step by step. It would be good if it was designed so you could slip the presure plate off and inspect the centre plate, but due to the design its a strip down job.

Edited by KernowCooper, 28 February 2013 - 12:21 AM.

[hobnob888]

just doesnt look right, as the pressure plate is on the end, it looks like a conventional clutch except from the middle

[KernowCooper]

The pressure plate diaphram is the only bit on the outside, the centre plate is behind the flywheel

Look at the breakdown of the clutch components here http://www.minispare...~ON.aspx?1~3~29

Edited by KernowCooper, 28 February 2013 - 12:41 AM.

[tiger99]

It has to be so because the primary gear must run on the outside of the crankshaft (obviously), and its splines must engage with the clutch centre plate, which runs in air, not oil, so basically in the dry area you end up with a crankshaft end poking out, surrounded by the splines for the centre plate. So the only solid place to fix the flywheel to the crankshaft has to be right on the outer end, with the pressure plate behind the flywheel.

With an end-on gearbox it can be very different, because the crankshaft and gearbox input shaft approach the clutch from opposite sides. For example on some Vauxhalls of 20 years ago or so (don't know if they are still like that) the flywheel was on the end of the crankshaft in the conventional manner, with the center plate and pressure plate as normal. But the gearbox input shaft was an internal loose shaft within the main shaft, and by removing a screwed plug in the transmission casing under the wheel arch and taking out a circlip (risky, it could drop inside!) a thread in the end allowed you to pull back the input shaft. A sheet metal cover underneath was then removed, and because the clutch casing was effectively open at the bottom, you would rotate the flywheel to undo all 6 bolts so the pressure plate and centre plate could be dropped out from below. You did need three special clips, easily made, or available by keeping them from new clutches, to hold the assembly together, and an M7 bolt to get the shaft pulled back. The official time for a clutch change was 22 minutes, and I did two in roughly that time, one a long way from home.

Maybe that is a strong incentive for a Vauxhall red top conversion?

In most other FWD cars a clutch change involves either engine out or gearbox out, or even both out together, so a Mini is not as good as a Vauxhall but much better than almost everything else when it comes to clutch changes.

[KernowCooper]

So you worked on Vauxhalls like I did about the same time, later they dropped the round screw in plug where you pulled the 1st motion shaft back through, and the cover had to come off instead, that put a lot of people off doing it and drove a bit of work back to the dealers.

[matt89racing]

Hi guys
you all seem to know your way around the clutch. I knew my clutch was slipping a little but last night I lost drive completley , engine running fine just no drive. I'm guessing that means that the clutch has gone? my question to all is, do I strip down the clutch assy and relace the clutch plate? and, do I need to replace anything else or can I use everything that I have taken?
thanks

[KernowCooper]

If the clutch is slipping and no drive then its best to fit a new centre plate, diaphram and clutch release bearing, false economy when you have it all out just to put in one piece, if the daiphram is weakened then it could shorten the life of the centre plate. While its off are you going to fit the large red primary oil seal? I usually do when I'm that close, just be careful you dont damage the lip on the splines when refitting it, there is a cone tool but some tape over the splines and grease lightly and tap the new seal in.