5 replies to this topic

[JEPhotography]

Hey,

I'm looking to send the shell and maybe sub frames off to be blasted and sprayed, while i'm doing this i'd like to rebuild the engine while i have garage space.

What components would you suggest buying to give the engine a complete overhaul e.g. gaskets, pistons

It's a non runner but we don't know whats wrong with it, so gonna overhaul and then troubleshoot

Thanks

James

Edit: replacing the clutch as i know that's gone, and probably all ancillaries

Edit2: Forgot to say it was a 998

Edited by JEPhotography, 03 March 2013 - 10:07 PM.

[dklawson]

Buy no engine parts to address wear until the engine has been inspected either by you or the machine shop doing the work. The "standard" things that should be replaced regardless of wear will be the oil pump, gaskets, timing chain (and tensioner if applicable). You may want to get a new set of clutch parts if you don't know the condition or history of what has been on the engine. Being a non-runner you may also want to buy rebuild kits for the carb(s).

[booton]

i would agree strip it down first. might find something you won't like. Hopefully not!! but just in case,

[JEPhotography]

Buy no engine parts to address wear until the engine has been inspected either by you or the machine shop doing the work. The "standard" things that should be replaced regardless of wear will be the oil pump, gaskets, timing chain (and tensioner if applicable). You may want to get a new set of clutch parts if you don't know the condition or history of what has been on the engine. Being a non-runner you may also want to buy rebuild kits for the carb(s).

I doubt the engines in to bad condition since the only previous owner was an old woman who only drove it in good weather conditions but it has been sat in a garage for the last 10 years. I bought it off there son in law (an engineer for bloodhound ssc) and he said it had had problems with alternator or starter motor before. It's not ceased but you cant turn it by hand, the clutch pedal wont depress at all so gonna replace the whole clutch assembly

Edit: trying to get the engine done as fast as possible since i'll only really have the time the minis in the bodywork shop so was going to buy most stuff thats known to go and then have a little bit of hope; dont want to find theres nothing wrong then have to wait for all the replacement bits to come in the post... it's still got oil in

Edited by JEPhotography, 03 March 2013 - 09:40 PM.

[Fast Ivan]

I'm currently re-building my MPI engine so I have been pricing things up, heres what I have so far, its assuming a rebore and hone to 1293.

Pistons and rings (21253) £180
Standard camshaft £30
Main bearings £36
big end bearings £31
Camshaft bearings £12
Thrust washers £12
Cam followers £20
Core/oil plugs £15
Oil pump £16
water pump £20
duplex timing gear £25

Just starting on the gearbox costing and its looking to be about 500 ish for parts, thats including an X pin diff, genuine balk rings and a minispares rebuild kit plus a few other parts.


As has been said though: it depends on what you find when you open it all up it terms of regrinding crank, rebore and hone, decking and head work

[dklawson]

It sounds like the engine "ran when parked" so instead of starting with the intention of a potentially unnecessary rebuild, start by just getting the engine going. Once it is started you can perform a compression test and determine what is needed.

Others will add to my list below but I'll get it started.
For a sit of 10 years you are going to need to...

• Put some oil (or diesel fuel) in the bores and turn the engine over BY HAND over a few days to make sure that the rings have not seized and that any deposits have softened.
• Change the engine oil.
• Change the radiator fluid.
• Adjust the valves.
• Drain the old fuel out of the tank.
• Look for and replace any inline fuel filters a previous owner may have installed.
• Replace all the flexible fuel lines.
• At the carb.. read up on how to do a minimal disassembly so you can use spray carb cleaner to remove all gum and varnish deposits. AVOID doing anything that will alter the existing fuel air mixture setting if the car ran when parked.
• Make sure the piston in the carb is free to move.

Once the engine is started and at temperature you can determine how rough it is and if you need to rebuild it at all. Regardless, before DRIVING the car, you should also go completely through the brakes. It has been sitting for 10 years and you didn't mention how old the car was. Assume all the rubber lines and seals in the brakes should be replaced. It is cheap insurance to replace these before putting the car back on the road.

The clutch issue may only be seizure of the throw-out arm or actuating rod in the clutch cover. Penetrating oil at the pivot and sliding points may be all you need for now. As with my engine comments above, it will be financially better for you to get the engine started and clutch free before you start buying parts you may not need.