
Engine Lifting Points
#1
Posted 05 March 2013 - 08:55 PM
Any advice please..thanks
#2
Posted 05 March 2013 - 08:57 PM
I'd go with head bolts rather than rocker cover
#3
Posted 05 March 2013 - 09:08 PM
#4
Posted 08 March 2013 - 06:40 PM
Using the two outer head bolts forward of the rocker cover, will be ok. Some jiggery pokery on moving the engine hoist several times as you winch the engine out will be required.
Dont rush, just be patient and it should lift out without scratching your paint.
Edited by mk=john, 08 March 2013 - 06:41 PM.
#5
Posted 09 March 2013 - 12:15 AM
Hi,Yes, having the eyes should tilt the engine unit backwards by several degrees so the back of the diff housing clears the subby. But this isn't by much, but makes removal much easier than without.
Using the two outer head bolts forward of the rocker cover, will be ok. Some jiggery pokery on moving the engine hoist several times as you winch the engine out will be required.
Dont rush, just be patient and it should lift out without scratching your paint.
In case I what to replace my engine for a new one tested on a bench, do I have to remove the nuts from those head bolts to attach the lifting eyes?
If I remove them, will I disturb the head gasket?
Thanks
#6
Posted 09 March 2013 - 01:10 AM
There are also some great lifting eyes available that thread into #1 and #4 spark plug holes
#7
Posted 09 March 2013 - 02:26 AM
#8
Posted 09 March 2013 - 04:50 AM
#9
Posted 09 March 2013 - 11:59 AM
I have also seen several A series engines with longer studs in those two positions, to allow for a second nut to hold the bracket. If you only nip up the nuts, not apply high torque, it does not disturb the load on the studs, so will not affect the gasket. I have no idea where the longer studs came from, maybe another type of engine altogether. If you can find the source for these, they would be a very useful fitment to simplify maintenance in the future.
#10
Posted 09 March 2013 - 12:00 PM
#11
Posted 09 March 2013 - 07:51 PM
Digging deep into my memory, I also remember that I fitted Mini number 3 with a permanent pair of brackets, made from small offcuts of angle iron, on the two front outer studs.
Mini number 1 was done usually by splitting the engine and box in situ and lifting by hand, with heavy bits like the head removed. Not really recommended.
#12
Posted 09 March 2013 - 08:25 PM
I have also seen several A series engines with longer studs in those two positions, to allow for a second nut to hold the bracket. If you only nip up the nuts, not apply high torque, it does not disturb the load on the studs, so will not affect the gasket. I have no idea where the longer studs came from, maybe another type of engine altogether. If you can find the source for these, they would be a very useful fitment to simplify maintenance in the future.
These are standard studs surely - usually only one fitted though to hang the coil bracket from.
#13
Posted 11 March 2013 - 12:17 PM
And yes, on at least one, but not all, of my Minis, the coil bracket was indeed on one of these studs. I seem to recall that on the oldest one the coil sat on top of the dynamo.
#14
Posted 11 March 2013 - 01:12 PM
Early cars did have the coil fitted onto the top of the dynamo with a special bracket.
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